The DR650 has a factory option to be lowered. I asked a couple of service managers at Suzuki dealers about doing it that way.
I got a funny answer. "We don't go to all that trouble. We just move the bolt on the rear shock to the upper hole and slide the forks up in the triple clamps about 3/4 inch. Then put on the shorter side stand."
Really. And you expect me to pay for that?
This was a couple of years ago. I did some digging on multiple forums to see if anybody out there has suffered adverse effects from this shortcut.
I couldn't find a single post. (Disclaimer: that doesn't mean they aren't out there). The only problem was with people that had slid their forks up more than 1 inch.
So I did it the shortcut way. I had no problems whatsoever. In the dirt it was great to not have to worry as much about stopping over a dip and not being able to touch! It is also very simple to do. And makes it easy to reverse if you should want too! Rear
1. Loosen the lower shock bolt. I needed penetrating oil and a 2 foot breaker bar to break the Loctight.
2. The little metal flap that covers the upper bolt hole, bend it out of the way so that you can see the upper bolt hole.
3. Mount the shock on the upper hole.
4. Loctite and tighten the nut to 40 lb/ft per the manual.Center Stand
Replace with the shorter one so the bike doesn't fall over you take it off the jack or crate. Some owners opt to remove an inch or two from the center of the stand and weld it back together. But that makes it harder to reverse the process if you want too.Front
1. Loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts on the side of each fork.
2. You may need to lower the bike or lever up the front wheel to slide the forks up in the clamps. Around 3/4 of an inch keeps the steering geometry about the same. This was the hardest step. A helper would be useful.
3. Tighten down the upper and lower clamp bolts.
Upper: 21 lb/ft per the manual.
Lower: 19 lb/ft per the manual.
Tah-dah! An hour or so later and you are done.
If you want to do it the factory way. Consult the manual. The information is in there. The rear isn't too hard to do the factory way.
See this pictorial of it: http://members.westnet.com.au/dangermouse/lowering.html
The front is a lot more involved. Me, being a lazy mechanic, I didn't want to mess with it. Also, I wanted to be able to easily AND quickly reverse it
The factory way is not quick, or easy in my opinion.
I was glad that I did it with the shortcut, because I reversed it after a year. I do much less dirt riding now and like the taller bike in the twisties.
I am an enthusiastic rider. So far I am not a peg scraper, but in the lower position it always felt like I was going to scrape.