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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 5:47 pm 
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Wrapped a bit of tube around it and clamped it up. No marks in the last 5 years.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:37 am 
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Location: Bangalow NSW Australia
This is going to be my next project to install braided lines. Is there photos of what I should do to protect the line? :s_crazy


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:52 pm 
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Anyone on a DR650 have a re-routing tip for that front brake line, perhaps with some clean banjo fittings, 90 or two to get it out of my face and down that left fork leg cleanly and with room to travel during normal suspension functioning.

I have a lovely gaffler line but hate it. it is single line from right master up and over all dash items . . .

JR


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:13 pm 
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Welcome to DRRiders!

The two things I did that I think made this successful for me were the alignment of the lower banjo fitting, and where along the line I attached the lower fork clamp.

Image
It's a little tight, but I can still attach a bleeder hose with out disturbing the banjo bolt.
Image

Low enough to not have too much slack down low, but also not so much that the line isn't well away from the rotor along its route.
Image

Image

I re-purposed an old bracket to "make" an extension for the upper guide so that it would clear the Vapor dash. Should probably make a real one out of aluminum flat bar at some point.
Image
Barely clears. Should be longer, but I would then need to make a relief cut in the headlight shroud to fit.
Image

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2013 DR650 34,651------->DR790 1,000 miles and counting


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 9:29 am 
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Whoah. Will have to check mine.

Do I understand correctly that the problem is the line moves inside the heavy plastic sheath (even if bolted in the guide clamp) and then contacts the rotor?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:46 am 
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The brake line needs somewhere to move as the front suspension compresses and extends, thats why you have a loop above the dash. Street bikes don't have this configuration since they usually have a small manifold on the lower triple tree and the flex portion of the line is down by the wheel, not the best scenario for an off-road bike. You can change its setup but be very carefull since you could cause the front brake to fail at an unfortunate time, it need to flex and move somewhere...

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if you use the word "Bling" along with DR650... You are buying the beer in a tutu and ballet slippers...


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:44 am 
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Sandcrabdave wrote:
The brake line needs somewhere to move as the front suspension compresses and extends, thats why you have a loop above the dash. Street bikes don't have this configuration since they usually have a small manifold on the lower triple tree and the flex portion of the line is down by the wheel, not the best scenario for an off-road bike. You can change its setup but be very carefull since you could cause the front brake to fail at an unfortunate time, it need to flex and move somewhere...



This is what mine looks like. Galfer line. Purchased and installed earlier this spring. Seemed to just fit this way.

Image


Image

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 10:08 am 
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LostInPA wrote:
Sandcrabdave wrote:
The brake line needs somewhere to move as the front suspension compresses and extends, thats why you have a loop above the dash. Street bikes don't have this configuration since they usually have a small manifold on the lower triple tree and the flex portion of the line is down by the wheel, not the best scenario for an off-road bike. You can change its setup but be very carefull since you could cause the front brake to fail at an unfortunate time, it need to flex and move somewhere...



This is what mine looks like. Galfer line. Purchased and installed earlier this spring. Seemed to just fit this way.


The issue is if the line is not firmly attached at the top of the slider it can be forced downwards and over into the spinning tire/rotor as if slides through the attachment point. This can happen if you have accessories in the way of the upper part of the brake line as it rises and lowers with suspension movement. I've seen many setups where safety wire is used and wrapped around the hose and sunk into the plastic/teflon cover just above the mounting point then down to just below the mounting point in the same manner to reduce the chance of the hose slipping though the attachment point.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 2:55 pm 
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mxrob wrote:
LostInPA wrote:
Sandcrabdave wrote:
The brake line needs somewhere to move as the front suspension compresses and extends, thats why you have a loop above the dash. Street bikes don't have this configuration since they usually have a small manifold on the lower triple tree and the flex portion of the line is down by the wheel, not the best scenario for an off-road bike. You can change its setup but be very carefull since you could cause the front brake to fail at an unfortunate time, it need to flex and move somewhere...



This is what mine looks like. Galfer line. Purchased and installed earlier this spring. Seemed to just fit this way.


The issue is if the line is not firmly attached at the top of the slider it can be forced downwards and over into the spinning tire/rotor as if slides through the attachment point. This can happen if you have accessories in the way of the upper part of the brake line as it rises and lowers with suspension movement. I've seen many setups where safety wire is used and wrapped around the hose and sunk into the plastic/teflon cover just above the mounting point then down to just below the mounting point in the same manner to reduce the chance of the hose slipping though the attachment point.



Hmm. Well the fat part right above the guide in my photo physically can't fit through the metal ring as I have it. But looking at the other photos it appears I was supposed to clamp the metal ring around the fat part.

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Shinko 804/805s
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DR650
DRZ400
2 Sons, 1 Labrador, 1 Cat

Scoreboard:

Concussions: 1
Broken Bones: 5
Plates: 1
Screws: 8

Giggles a plenty...


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