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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:57 am 
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Adventure Rider
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Gaslamps wrote:
My DR at 20,000 miles, when after sitting at a traffic light say, when I pull in the clutch and shift it into 1st has a pretty pronounced "thunk" when going into gear. No gear grind and once riding, she seems to shift fine. But, when hot and putting it into 1st after sitting a light say, I can feel and hear, a "thunk". Kinda hurts me to do it if you know what I mean.

Could it be this issue discussed here fellas, Jeff ?


That's pretty common on the DR...you can all but eliminate the thunk by pulling in the clutch and holding it for 10-15 seconds before shifting into gear.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:59 am 
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Anything that causes the clutch to drag can make that shifting clunk harder than normal.
It can also be worn fingers on the clutch basket, slightly warped steel plates, too much freeplay, etc. Or any combination.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:02 am 
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Trail Rider
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ProCycle wrote:
Anything that causes the clutch to drag can make that shifting clunk harder than normal.
It can also be worn fingers on the clutch basket, slightly warped steel plates, too much freeplay, etc. Or any combination.

Thanks Jeff,
If it were you ? Where would I go 1st ?
BTW, I am at checkout on PC, and it will not process for some reason. Everything seems to be filled in correctly in the form.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 10:01 pm 
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Gaslamps wrote:
If it were you ? Where would I go 1st ?
If the clunk is really harsh enough to warrant some repair the only thing to do is dive in and inspect everything clutch related. Replace anything that is not 'perfect'.


Gaslamps wrote:
BTW, I am at checkout on PC, and it will not process for some reason. Everything seems to be filled in correctly in the form.

No idea why. Other orders are coming through regularly. I'm out of town so can't really do any meaningful checking. Just give the sales staff a call. They'll fix you up. :wink:

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DR900 Stroker Project
TurboDiesel Corvette


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 2:00 pm 
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Just doing my bi-monthly or so browse at Procycle to see what's new and noticed they sell the two thrust washers and top hat bushing as a set for dragging clutch solutions :good:

http://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#thrustwashers

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'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 7:49 pm 
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okay first post here we go....
2006 650 dragging clutch, PO stated that he had a new clutch installed. no freeplay on the cable, bike clunked going into gear dragging. I'm no stranger to clutch issues (I own a DL1000!). after you all have scared the crap out me with the NSU thing I decided to order the safety wire bolt kit along with new thrust washers and sleeves from PC. teardown revealed a new non stock clutch, all the plates are the same thickness and measure the same at the top of the spec. the basket is not grooved and looks good, reassembled with new parts torqued to 36 ft/lbs. I check the endplay between the inner outer basket/ hub, it has some and spins smooth and free. installed new clutch cable (just cause I wanted a spare). the pull is quite firm on the clutch. I messed with the arm for quite awhile and still have a draggin clutch. removed oil fill and took a visual on the clutch release, seemed okay. I've read here that the stronger springs can cause a problem but I can't wrap my head around how that can be as the clutch lever is moving the same amount no matter what springs are in there. Am I missing something here? apparently so. Idea's??? :nea:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 9:43 pm 
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SuperMoto Dude
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A little late here.... So I just caught up on the 7+ pages on this thread and I applaud the great minds coming together and math'ing this issue out. I'd expect none less from this excellent DRRiders community, but I highly suggest one of you with this issue open a dialog with Suzuki Corporate. This is exactly the type of field-data they would thrive on. I mention this because I recently got firsthand insight on the Suzuki Corp via my nephew's experience. Last year, his bike was bought back by Suzuki. Yeah, you read that correctly - they (surprisingly) paid to purchase his 2010 GSXR (plus cash for his upgrades) and sent the bike bike to Japan for evaluation. He had filed a failure claim with his local dealership referencing his sprocket-side chain adjuster block. It crushed/sandwiched against the adjuster bolt. He almost went down as a result. All he wanted was a new part, but someone at Suzuki took notice. Reality-check .. was my young nephew hot-dogging the bike, did he add a power commander, did he torque the axle nut correctly, did he up the HP, and increase the rear sprocket? Yeah, he's 20, (unfortunately) that's what 20 year olds do. But here's Suzuki's stance : they know we (consumers) turn wrenches, they know we mod their products, they know we push and punish their products, and still they believe their products should NOT fail due to under-engineering on their part. It really is a die-on the sword culture in Japan and they take it seriously – especially safety issues, and a clutch issue would certainly qualify. So the best thing I can suggest is that one coordinate via your local dealer and get this issue documented into the system. Suzuki does monitor these indecent reports, whether it's yours, the PO, or Suzuki's fault.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 11:02 am 
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thought I'd check back in with latest findings,
unfortunately when I put the oil back in I went by the book. nearly 3/4 qt. too much. I believe the the cold oil was roping around the clutch to cause some dragging.
I measured the pull distance on the oem clutch lever and it was just under 1 1/4". I elected to purchase a Warp 9 lever as the oem lever was crowded in hand guard. Warp 9 I could get just over 1 1/4" so helped the release quite a bit. now able to adjust the clutch with a bit of freeplay and not gear jam and drag. other than the super heavy clutch pull caused by the Barnett springs (I have a couple of stock springs I'll replace on next oil change), the clutch itself feel good. I think it may be sorted out.
Time to Ride! :Roost:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:56 am 
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Just read this whole thread.

My DR has 1300 miles on it.

Would you guys take any kind of preventive measures on a new bike to prevent this issue? :drinks:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:18 am 
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If you wanted to try to prevent it from happening you would have to remove the clutch assembly, clean the oil out from between the shaft and bearing and apply the wicking Loctite. Then put it all back together slightly over-torquing the clutch nut.

I wouldn't tear it down just to do this but maybe if you were already in there to freshen the clutch or wire the NSU screws it might make sense.

With only 1300 miles you have many years of riding to enjoy before these parts wear enough to be a problem. If or when your clutch starts dragging you have pretty much the same job to fix it as trying to prevent it.

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DR900 Stroker Project
TurboDiesel Corvette


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