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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:10 am 
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RamMan4x4 wrote:
...I'd be really nervous about a drop or some runoff getting into the bearings...
I would not be the least bit concerned if a drop of Loctite dribbled down into the bearing. The stuff will only solidify in a confined space. Even if a little did set up in the bearing it would get spit right out with no ill effects.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:19 am 
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ProCycle wrote:
RamMan4x4 wrote:
...I'd be really nervous about a drop or some runoff getting into the bearings...
I would not be the least bit concerned if a drop of Loctite dribbled down into the bearing. The stuff will only solidify in a confined space. Even if a little did set up in the bearing it would get spit right out with no ill effects.


Good to know...Thanks! I guess there is a taper on the inner race of the bearing as well so the chances of it pooling over are pretty slim.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:53 am 
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ProCycle wrote:
Plonker wrote:
Hate to admit it it's the first time I've heard of "wicking" loctite.

Locktite 290
---> http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_ ... en-290.htm
It's made for securing bolts that are already installed...! :dunno: But also works well for securing a shaft in a bearing or a bearing in a loose bore.
Pretty handy stuff. I got it to fix a squeak coming from the shaft on my dyno roller. That thing is an all weekend job to take the roller out.


ProCycle wrote:
RamMan4x4 wrote:
...I'd be really nervous about a drop or some runoff getting into the bearings...
I would not be the least bit concerned if a drop of Loctite dribbled down into the bearing. The stuff will only solidify in a confined space. Even if a little did set up in the bearing it would get spit right out with no ill effects.


So, I tried this, wicking grade thread locker, but it will simply not harden, or at least not make the shaft and inner bearing race stick together. I turned the engine on its side, cleaned it up with denatured ethanol and high pressure air, left it for a few hours, and then applied the threadlocker. Unfortunately, the bearing race still spins freely on the shaft, after several days of hardening.

It was suggested to me that Loctie 290 isn't the correct adhesive for this application as it's a thread locker, but rather that loctite 601 (wicking) or 603 should be used, which are shaft locking adhesives.

I did manage to spill some on the wrong side of the bearing race, but like ProCycle says, hopefully won't mean anything (like, it didn't harden anyway, so what could it possibly do...)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 10:32 am 
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Dino de Laurentiis wrote:
So, I tried this, wicking grade thread locker, but it will simply not harden, or at least not make the shaft and inner bearing race stick together. I turned the engine on its side, cleaned it up with denatured ethanol and high pressure air, left it for a few hours, and then applied the threadlocker. Unfortunately, the bearing race still spins freely on the shaft, after several days of hardening.

It was suggested to me that Loctie 290 isn't the correct adhesive for this application as it's a thread locker, but rather that loctite 601 (wicking) or 603 should be used, which are shaft locking adhesives.

I did manage to spill some on the wrong side of the bearing race, but like ProCycle says, hopefully won't mean anything (like, it didn't harden anyway, so what could it possibly do...)

It sounds like you might have quite a bit more clearance between your shaft and the inner race of the bearing than I do. I can not spin the bearing race by hand on my engine without the shaft turning with it. I will try again tonight to be sure, but I'm almost positive that I can't. That being the case, you may have too much of a gap for it to cure properly.

I'm not sure that loctite 601 (listed as 609 in the US and 601 in the UK) is actually wicking adhesive. Per their website it seems like it is just a low strength shaft adhesive designed to take up clearances up to 0.006" but also be removable for maintenance. The 603 (which is still listed as 603 in the US and UK) is designed to do the same thing as 601/609 but it has higher strength and is more of a permanent solution. I do think that given your situation, one of these products is probably what you need.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 11:39 am 
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RamMan4x4 wrote:
mxrob wrote:
This thread is very sticky worthy... Thanks to all of the contributors! :clapping:

Thanks for making it a sticky! :good:

I'm willing to bet this issue is more common than the current page count indicates...especially with high mileage DRs.


Thanks guys for doing the legwork and documenting. :drinks: All but certain I have the same issue. 23k. Notchy/chunky shifting and vibration. Hear it acting up when the bike is warm and I pull in the clutch while idling.. something funny going on under that clutch cover.

So RamMan, just to recap you replaced:
Inner washer #2 (09160-22032)
"tophat" bushing #3 (21251-32E00)
outer washer #8 (09160-22068)
outermost friction plate. (21441-44B01)

Thinking ahead about ordering these at least. I'll keep an eye on the other plates and the wave washer when I get it apart. Also a new clutch cable for sure. already have a spare clutch cover gasket.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:43 pm 
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ddlewis wrote:
Thanks guys for doing the legwork and documenting. :drinks: All but certain I have the same issue. 23k. Notchy/chunky shifting and vibration. Hear it acting up when the bike is warm and I pull in the clutch while idling.. something funny going on under that clutch cover.

So RamMan, just to recap you replaced:
Inner washer #2 (09160-22032)
"tophat" bushing #3 (21251-32E00)
outer washer #8 (09160-22068)
outermost friction plate. (21441-44B01)

Thinking ahead about ordering these at least. I'll keep an eye on the other plates and the wave washer when I get it apart. Also a new clutch cable for sure. already have a spare clutch cover gasket.


That is the parts list, but I didn't place the order until yesterday so I haven't swapped any parts yet. You may or may not need the outermost friction plate...I've ridden a lot of single track in the last year so I'm not too surprised that clutch plate showed the most wear. I guess it never hurts to have a spare. Just remember to soak it in oil overnight before you install it.

I'm also going to measure the clutch springs while I have it apart. There is a good writeup stickied to this section as well about a slipping clutch due to the springs relaxing/creeping over time. I bought some barnett clutch springs from PC about a year ago and never installed them. PC recommended only installing 2 of them (opposite of each other) to keep the clutch pull effort down. My plan is to install two of the barnett springs and the two best factory springs during the reinstall.

It's probably a good idea to order a spare clutch cover if you don't already have one. Mine came off without any tearing but some don't.

Also, it's a good idea to mark the clutch lever arm and case like the picture below to make indexing the clutch arm easier when you get everything back together. Let us know what you find when you get it apart.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:33 pm 
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RamMan4x4 wrote:
...You may or may not need the outermost friction plate...I've ridden a lot of single track in the last year so I'm not too surprised that clutch plate showed the most wear...
I'm also going to measure the clutch springs while I have it apart.


have been riding a fair amount of low speed tight-ish trails as well and doing a lot of clutching. It's not slipping but it seems to engage weird lately.. grabby/hard to modulate. Maybe I need the whole stack.

I expect springs are ok but will measure those too. I'll post when i take it apart and see if my findings line up.

thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:21 pm 
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All the parts came in so I let my DR take a little nap while I installed the wicking loctite. I had my doubts, but it did a good job of wicking between the shaft and the bearing. I wasn't able to spin the inner race separately from the shaft prior to installing the loctite so I really can't say how well it worked...I guess time will tell.

I need to turn the heater on in the garage so I can put everything back together...should be able to get to it this weekend...maybe sooner.

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 3:41 pm 
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So either I found another error in the manual or my bike was built wrong...I'm guessing the former.

Section 3-49 of the manual (see image below) states part number 10 is a #2 clutch plate and there is only one of those plates which is installed next to the inner hub. The manual also states all the remaining plates (seven more) are #1 clutch plates. My bike is the opposite, I have one #1 plate that that is installed next to the inner hub and the remaining plates are all #2 plates.

Image

To make matters more complicated, the online parts fiche, which oddly shows the proper number of plates (1x #1 and 7x #2) has the stack up reversed with the single #1 plate on the outer most position. In the parts fiche picture below, part 10 is the #1 plate and part 9 is the #2 plate. The picture clearly shows the #1 plate installed on the outside of the plate stackup...

Image

So I'm not sure which is correct, but it doesn't matter much at this point...the clutch plate I bought per the manual is a #1 plate, but the plate that I wanted to replace is a #2 plate. The worn plate is still within spec so I'm going to reuse it for now. Just for the record keeping, here are some part numbers:

- Clutch Plate #1, qty = 1, P/N: 21441-44B01
- Clutch Plate #2, qty = 7, P/N: 21441-31D00

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 9:49 am 
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My DR at 20,000 miles, when after sitting at a traffic light say, when I pull in the clutch and shift it into 1st has a pretty pronounced "thunk" when going into gear. No gear grind and once riding, she seems to shift fine. But, when hot and putting it into 1st after sitting a light say, I can feel and hear, a "thunk". Kinda hurts me to do it if you know what I mean.

Could it be this issue discussed here fellas, Jeff ?


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