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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 10:55 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:03 pm
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Location: Lake Macquarie, NSW
I have no idea how you blokes got into that screw and then got enough play to be able to crack it loose. 2 hours so far and I give up. And every other thread showing how to do it by removing the clutch doesnt show the critical bit; - how to lock the clutch sleeve hub to be able to get the 27mm nut undone :bang:


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:03 am 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2014 11:12 am
Posts: 1477
Location: San Francisco
I bought the $16 clutch holding tool, but many people report getting it done by putting the bike in 5th and putting the bike on the side stand. Might be good to have a friend around to spot the bike. If you have an air hammer impact gun, I bet you could get it off with that easily.

Ps - seems to me that doing this work with the clutch in place is more work than actually removing the clutch. Assuming your clutch gasket stays in tact, this whole job should take 30 minutes (unless you count the 30 minutes ride to heat up the oil)


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:07 am 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 12:12 pm
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Location: Eureka, CA
Sorry but it's been discussed plenty in many a NSU thread. Re - review the post before yours to see what worked for me without buying a special tool...


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 11:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:03 pm
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Location: Lake Macquarie, NSW
I should know better than to tackle these jobs after nightshift. :Horse

2am and just worked out dohh put it in gear and apply rear brake. :whistling:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:25 pm
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Suzuki deserves credit for making it easier for riders to fix the NSU problem without removing the clutch. :rolleyes: (Need good "tongue in cheek" emoticon here LOL).

On my 2013, I found that the old Phillips head (or JIS) screws had been replaced with Allen bolts. Not only that, Suzuki engineers thoughtfully used Allen bolts with both a ridged surface on the outer bolt circumference, and a washer-like edge larger than the bolt-head itself.

Thanks to those innovations, without removing the clutch, you can use a curved needlenose to rotate the top bolt out, rather than using your Allen wrench a hundred times in a very small space. With the curved needlenose, you can either catch a ridge to rotate, or grab a bit of the washer-like edge. Easy!

In another bit of possible progress on Suzuki's part to fix the long-running NSU problem, see that blue stuff on the outside of the stock bolt from my NSU? Looks like Loctite, no? Not sure if it is, but maybe Suzuki has begun using Loctite on the outside bolt head? If so, it should be only a couple of more model years before they start using Loctite on the threaded bolt itself!

For the record, the bolts on my 2013 with 600 mis were "tight," so to speak -- but they cracked open with barely the slightly pressure on the Allen wrench.

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:33 am 
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Location: Queenstown, New Zealand
yeah, i have done two 2010 models, and they both had these screws.

the first one i did was my own, and the bolts were loose, one barely finger tight.

i reckon that blue stuff is a paint applied to the bolts to show they have been torqued up by a tech at the factory.

from memory my oil lines and clutch bolts had paint like this on them.

thes are mine from 3 years ago.

Image[/url]IMG_0160 by rian munro, on Flickr[/img]

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: Avalon Sydney Australia
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2014 12:16 pm
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Location: Avalon Sydney Australia 
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Great thread guys, very helpful!

I am about to pull mine apart today while I'm doing a service to check my NSU bolts. My question is, if I have removed all the neutral switches (kickstand & clutch) is it possible to remove the NSU switch from the engine casing altogether without causing issues?
Has this been done before?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 10:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:11 am
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Location: Victoria British Columbia
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Soldier311 wrote:
Michigander wrote:
I just did my NSU screws...... 2013 model.... and was pleased to find it came equipped with allen head screws, so it was a simple matter of removing the screws with a ball end allen wrench, they came out quite easily, and a little carb clean in the hole, clean threads, and back in they went with blue locktite. A shorter head allen wrench was required for final tightening, to clear the shield, being as the ball head is insufficient for that. Aside from removing the cover, it was a 10 minute job, Remember to wait a day before adding oil. I always tape over the ignition with a note that says "NO OIL"..... to be sure I dont forget.


If you safety wire the screws, there's no need to use locktite OR wait 24 hours before adding oil, right?


Probably right, but if the NSU is shrinking over time you will eventually have loose screws. IF they are wired they shouldn't move but they might vibrate. I like the idea of the loctite prevent any movement of the screws.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2016 7:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:35 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Centurion South Africa
Hi Guys, I like this post and will do it this afternoon...Just came back from a 200 KM ride this morning. at 88 km I stopped for a stretch and the Neutral light did on come on. (yes it was in Neutral :s_biggrin) I completed the trip but I am not happy. I will check the light bulb first. The Dr is purring over as normal.

Continued....I dove in and removed the clutch NSU was fine both screws we in place. I replaced them and did the safety wire lock... now I will have to find the electrical issue. I will start with the bulb.....

Any ideas gents??


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:45 pm
Posts: 950
Location: Reno, NV
No electrical tips to offer you, but I bet you were relived to see the screws still intact!


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