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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 11:57 pm 
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Awesome how to! Didn't want to mess around with the clutch assembly at all :good:


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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2014 9:52 am 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Jiggman650 wrote:
Awesome how to! Didn't want to mess around with the clutch assembly at all :good:

+1 If there is no need to remove the clutch assembly, I'll be leaving it right where it's at.

I just picked up one of those Canadian Tire bit driver sets which was on sale for 1/2 price. It was red tagged, which means it will be discontinued, for all you Canadian DR wrenchers. They might just be coming out with a new version? or getting rid of it all together?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maste ... 8626p.html

For all the USA DR wrenchers, Not sure how good this one is, but the price is right. Only $2.99 and rated 4 out of 5 stars, with 21 reviews.
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-ri ... 92630.html

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 7:37 pm 
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Great info here! I just did mine by this method. Fo the screw behind the clutch, I used bent nose pliers to fit a small screwdriver bit into place, then held that bit with a narrow strip of sheet metal while I turned it with a 1/4 open end wrench. Slow going, but doable, and not as intimidating as removing the clutch.

Word of warning: whichever method you use, be sure the cover goes easily back into place, not forced by sucking down with the cover screws! I got mine wrong the first time around and it would have been expensive if I hadn`t lucked out. I had my rack-toothed activator rod facing the wrong way (it needs to be tooth side forwards) and sucked it on, not thinking much about it because I had had to really pry on it to get it apart with the 10 year old gasket gluing it all together. After a forum help request clued me in to why I could no longer pull the clutch lever, I took it apart and put it back the right way (minus a few teeth that I had broken off the pinion rod), and it went right on, no screw pulling, no pounding or prying, no cussing required.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 7:44 pm 
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Location: Michigan, USA
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I just did my NSU screws...... 2013 model.... and was pleased to find it came equipped with allen head screws, so it was a simple matter of removing the screws with a ball end allen wrench, they came out quite easily, and a little carb clean in the hole, clean threads, and back in they went with blue locktite. A shorter head allen wrench was required for final tightening, to clear the shield, being as the ball head is insufficient for that. Aside from removing the cover, it was a 10 minute job, Remember to wait a day before adding oil. I always tape over the ignition with a note that says "NO OIL"..... to be sure I dont forget.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:19 pm 
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Location: N.C. - Raleigh and east
Michigander wrote:
I just did my NSU screws...... 2013 model.... and was pleased to find it came equipped with allen head screws, so it was a simple matter of removing the screws with a ball end allen wrench, they came out quite easily, and a little carb clean in the hole, clean threads, and back in they went with blue locktite. A shorter head allen wrench was required for final tightening, to clear the shield, being as the ball head is insufficient for that. Aside from removing the cover, it was a 10 minute job, Remember to wait a day before adding oil. I always tape over the ignition with a note that says "NO OIL"..... to be sure I dont forget.


If you safety wire the screws, there's no need to use locktite OR wait 24 hours before adding oil, right?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:34 pm 
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Soldier311 wrote:
If you safety wire the screws, there's no need to use locktite OR wait 24 hours before adding oil, right?
That's right, but you make it a bigger job. I did the NSU screws on my '06 recently, replacing the factory screws with plain hex head bolts. Both screws were in place but the upper one was zero torque value, lower was a hair over zero. So they came right out and I made sure the holes were clean by gently twisting cotton swabs in and out until there was no more oil to absorb then put the new bolts in with Permatex blue thread locker. Let it sit overnight, and refilled the oil next day. I feel confident those bolts are never going to vibrate loose.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:56 pm 
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I just did mine, it was harder than I expected.

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:57 pm 
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mxrob wrote:
Hi Rob. I would like to add this tool to the NSU thread I started.
(Thanks for moving it to the new location.... nice.)

Image


It looks like it would work better than the pliers !
They are at Canadian Tire here but not sure if / where in the USA.

cheers. Tree


I am in the process of safety wiring the NSU screws on my 2013 DR, which has the allen socket head screws. I have one of these Canadian Tire mirco ratchet kits, and I can confirm it's a no go to get at the top screw behind the clutch assembly. If the allen bit was cut shorter it would work, but as is, it is to long to fit into place. Luckily I had one short allen key that did the trick, but it still was a pain-in-the-butt to get at. Very tight quarters to get in there, but it is doable. You just need a bucket full of patience get at that nasty top screw, lol.

Yes, do make sure you plug any holes with rags or paper towel, so an accidentally dropped screw doesn't end up in the transmission.

I should have taken a picture of the top screw, as it did have some blue Loctite on the head of the screw, but none on the threads of either screw. The bottom screw was in tight, but the top one was just barely over finger tight. I could see the top screw coming loose some time in the future if I did not safety wire it in place. So I am glad I did it and recommended everyone to get in there and make sure the NSU screws stay put.

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Ride to work, work to ride.
- 2014 FZ-09 for the pavement.
- 2013 DR650SE for everywhere else.


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2015 10:43 pm 
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As a member of the Dept of redundancy Dept I will say one last thing.
If you want a fail safe fix I still prefer the lockwire system.
It may be faster/easier if you don't like drilling the heads but it is worth the effort.
Airplanes and bikes both vibrate ( I started up a TBM Avenger radial engine recently and it shoooook !)
When I fly or ride I would hate knowing some critical piece I can't inspect is not lockwired.
The NSU is critical to me and now I can run my DR as hard as I want and never worry about those 2 screws again.
Feels great !

Just my .02 cents.

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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2015 11:59 pm 
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Agreed. Lock wire in my opinion is the way to go if you want to be extra safe. Yes you have to drill the screws but no cleaning out the screw holes, use of locktite, or waiting to refill with oil required. I found it WAY easier to work after removing the clutch. It's a good time to inspect clutch including washers 5 & 8 (I think) from the parts diagram for excessive wear which have been known to cause problems if badly worn. No special holding tool needed to remove clutch. Just put bike in 5th gear and have someone activate rear brake by pushing up on rear master cylinder rod. Easy to break nut loose at that point. To each his own though and you describe a great way to do it for those who would rather leave the clutch in place.


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