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Most bikes with factory fuel injection are like this.
True but most FI bikes like my Vstrom have the fuel pump in the tank with a disconnect right at the tank. So it is not a problem. You just get a little gas spill when you disconnect but the pump acts as the shut off.
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You could drain the fuel but it's a simple matter to pinch off the fuel hoses with forceps, vice grips or automotive tools for clamping fuel hoses.
Good idea! I had not thought of that. A bit more work but doable.
FYI my biggest issue with my install continues to be CLT. I didn't think this would be a big deal but it turns out that it is. I have a GM sensor mounted in the fins. The problem is that when riding in cool weather the sensor cools down much more than the inside of the motor drives the ECU into Warm Up Enrichment (WUE). If I set the WUE temperature curve down to around a 150 degrees limit, then it works OK if I ride out on the highway soon after starting but if it just does a lot of idling, it dies when WUE drops off because it is not really warm enough to run without it.
So I got some thermistors and yesterday I made my own sensor by drilling out a small bolt, installing the thermistor inside with JB Weld, and installed it in the back valve cover access plate. I thought this location would more accurately reflect the true temperature and not dive down due to air flow at speed. Well it didn't work. It cooled off even faster than the GM sensor in the fins!
My theory is that is caused by the oil being cooled rapidly in the oil heat exchanger before going into the head and the sensor is being sprayed by the cooled oil. Very disappointing.
So today I plan to make one like the one that comes in your kits, mount it the same way, and then test it. I sure hope that works better.
John
I was thinking the valve cover aluminum and the oil splash together would give me a good slow reacting average and not drop off radically like the Sensor mounted in the fins. But it cooled even faster due to the oil cooling. 
I think this is going to work for you guys. I just went for a test run and the temperature only dropped about 5 degrees when I got out on the highway from warmed up idle. I played with the calibration to get a little more dynamic range and it now reads about what you would expect for a water cooled motor but not as consistent of course, no thermostat. Around 175 running down the highway and up to 210 or so in traffic. I do think the under the spark plug is more accurate though, the vapor dash reads 240 to 280 for the same conditions. I will have to give the real test in the morning as it is too warm here now, 78 degrees in Orlando. 
