www.DRRiders.com

A Dedicated Suzuki DR650 forum for DR650 riders to share their knowledge, experience and adventures!
It is currently Sat Sep 23, 2017 7:33 pm

DRRIDERS.COM Search - powered by Google

DRRIDERS Member Location Map

Place yourself on the map here!

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 34 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:00 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:19 am
Posts: 952
Location: BC, Canada
Location:
My rear brake was also non-existent until I changed the fluid and cleaned the disc. Then it was fine for a few months before going back to almost nothing. Maybe it needs more frequent attention than the front. I may order a rear s.s. line to see if that makes any increment of difference. Ha! the rear brake of my DR is about the same as the front of my old Triumph. Pretty damn scary!

_________________
let's ride motorcycles!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:44 pm 
Offline
Single Tracker
Single Tracker
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 12:29 pm
Posts: 188
Location: N.E. Florida
Location:
ryde4ever wrote:
Rear brake is very lacking. Same here goes through a lot of travel, even with fresh pads and fluid. It goes from doing not much to locking up.
It reminds me of pulling the handbrake on a car. It doesn't do much to slow you down, but if you pull hard enough you can lock em up. :?


Tiger100 wrote:
My rear brake was also non-existent until I changed the fluid and cleaned the disc. Then it was fine for a few months before going back to almost nothing. Maybe it needs more frequent attention than the front. I may order a rear s.s. line to see if that makes any increment of difference. Ha! the rear brake of my DR is about the same as the front of my old Triumph. Pretty damn scary!


I feel better knowing that mine is not the only POS rear brake on a DR, but I'm sorry to hear that yours suck too! I wonder if we can graft on a different master cylinder to bump up the performance . . . something off of an RM-Z or DR-Z, maybe? That, plus the SS line may just be the ticket.

_________________
'07 Black DR-650SE - lots 'o mods
'09 White YZ250F - stock


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 10:23 am 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:19 am
Posts: 952
Location: BC, Canada
Location:
I like the master cylinder idea. Definitely worth looking into :drinks:

_________________
let's ride motorcycles!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:55 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:37 am
Posts: 1270
Location: Piedmont, NC
Location:
How to section sticky please!! :clapping:

_________________
WITH GREAT HORSE POWER....... COMES SHITTY GAS MILEAGE .. AND HIGHER INSURANCE PREMIUM....

2007 DR650 SuperMoto with almost all the goodies..(it never ends ya know!)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:00 pm 
Offline
Member Servant
Member Servant
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 9836
Location: Mackinaw City, MI, USA
Here's an add to this post sent to my by oldscool: :clapping:


Good rundown Rob,

Everyone tends to develop their own techniques. Front brake can be a pain to get it started pumping due to small output. I was glad to see that someone else uses a big animal syringe as well.

Here's my 2 cents...

I usually use 200 grit wet dry sandpaper on the rotor(w/ WD40) and pads (rinsing w/ brake clean) to rough and clean them. Then everything gets the hot water and simple green and toothbrush cleanup (simple green makes the aluminum parts pop and make rubber clean a supple as new)

Once the system is cleaned, purged, dried, greased and re-assembled I use the following personal bleeding procedure that I spawned from my cheapskate driven back bleeding theory.

First, if you haven't already you should take out the bleed screws and teflon tape them on the threads so they seal the thread gap (make sure you don't cover the bleed hole)

Zip tie or wire a clear tube to the large syringe and get the same on the bleed spud with it cracked open and a wrench engaged on the hex (where it will swing from tight to cracked open). Pull the plunger out of the syringe and hang it from the bike with a wire loop open side up and accessible - it makes a funnel on the low end...

Start filling from both sides and see saw the system pumping the reservoir from the top, then put the plunger in and force it up from the bottom.

You can work the system back and forth and keep filling it on both ends as necessary. When you can pump down the master cylinder reservoir down to almost empty then push it back full with no bubbles on either end you are done.

This works on front or rear systems.

_________________
- mxrob -


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 12:44 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:01 pm
Posts: 2312
Location: Apex, NC
Thanks for the great how-to write up! I swapped in new pads and flushed the system of old fluid and it made a huge difference. The two things I will add are:

1 - If you are going to change your pads while doing a brake flush, go ahead and swap the pads first. There isn't a lot of capacity in the master cylinder and if you fill it to the correct level with worn pads installed, you can potentially overflow the MC when you depress the caliper for the new pads.
2 - I took the bike for a ride after working on the front brakes but before working on the rear brakes. The thought is, if I mess up, I know one of the two systems will still work. This isn't entirely necessary, but I needed some more brake clean before working on the rear anyway so it made sense as an after thought.

_________________
'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 1:14 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:31 pm
Posts: 3762
Location: Central Florida, Where the clueless go to drive...
Great write up, covers all the bases, we use a Vacula to bleed and drain brakes, a cheap alternative to a Vacula is at Harbor Freight:

Image

Not sure what the other bottle in this kit is for but it looks like a master cylinder filler rig maybe, a friend has this kit and it works well just left the other bottle in the box

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

Less than $25 and works great for sucking the gurf out of the master cylinder and pulling fresh fluid down into the caliper. I can generally flush and bleed a bike with one of these critters in less than 20 minutes or 2 beers, whichever comes first.

The only drawback to this method is you have to have an air compressor to use the Vacula.

This is a real Vacula, costs 5 times as much as a HF knockoff:

Image

_________________
Dave
Spaced Coast, FL
RTFM, RTFM, RTFM!!!
2 nuts, 2 wheels, 2 beers...
OK, so what's the speed of dark?
You gotta have SACS to ride a DR!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 1:43 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:01 pm
Posts: 2312
Location: Apex, NC
The bottle on the left definitely looks like something you would turn upside down in an automotive master cylinder to top it off or keep it full. For automotive work, I use a Motive power bleeder...it's similar to the Vacula except it uses a garden style pump to pressurizes the fluid from the master cylinder and push it to the bleeder valves. It's not as universal as a vacuum operated system because it requires adapters to fit the MC, but you also have the option of filling it with DOT3 or 4 and using it to pressurize and fill the MC.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/?gclid=CMfZmaqqubcCFc8WMgodoTcAsQ

_________________
'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:02 am 
Offline
Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:42 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Location:
I just replaced the fluid accordingly. Feels great , the old one stunk real bad like a deflation of a 50 year old tire or something.
Of course I prob got a lot of air during and bled it pretty good I think- hope
I looked at the way the hoses travel , could it be that there are bubbles trapped in the high points? Like for example the front brake has a high point before in bends down towards the reservoir. As I was bleeding I did see the big bubbles pushed out but after it all comes smooth there will be little tiny bubbles here and there. Anyway the brakes feel good and would lock well upon hard braking. Just curious


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:39 am 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider

Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:32 pm
Posts: 504
Location: Waterloo Ontario, Canada
Location:
If I am doing a complete flush is it important which brake fluid I use?? I have unlimited silicone fluid, I have normal Dot 3 or 4 but no alcohol based fluid which the manual calls for.
I would like to change it to something I can readily get from my auto store. They don't stock the stuff the manual calls for.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 34 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  



Forum hosting by ProphpBB | Software by phpBB | Report Abuse | Privacy