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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:42 pm 
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Yes, valve adjustment is always done with the engine stone cold.

Here is something I always do before removing the valve covers. Of course, clean the frame before any valve adjustment, but this is extra insurance that nothing drops off the frame into the engine.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:00 pm 
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do you need to replace the valve cover gaskets when adjusting valves?i was going to check mine this weekend, but don't have the gaskets. will order them if they're necessary.

D

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:11 pm 
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dmsantam wrote:
do you need to replace the valve cover gaskets when adjusting valves?i was going to check mine this weekend, but don't have the gaskets. will order them if they're necessary.

D

Most people recommend replacing the valve cover seals. I have removed my valve covers at least ten times each time reusing the old seals and there have been no oil leaks. I reuse the old seals after wiping them clean and replacing in exactly the same position as they were prior to removal. It would be advisable to have a spare set of seals just incase the old ones leak.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:10 pm 
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dhardesthard wrote:
dmsantam wrote:
do you need to replace the valve cover gaskets when adjusting valves?i was going to check mine this weekend, but don't have the gaskets. will order them if they're necessary.

D

Most people recommend replacing the valve cover seals. I have removed my valve covers at least ten times each time reusing the old seals and there have been no oil leaks. I reuse the old seals after wiping them clean and replacing in exactly the same position as they were prior to removal. It would be advisable to have a spare set of seals just incase the old ones leak.


makes sense. i'll just check them, and order the seals if they leak. i have two bikes anyway so it can wait :s_thumbsup

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Yamaha FJR 1300, 2001 model for road touring, Suzuki DR650SE 2006 model for dirt touring.
----------
160 main jet, dynojet needle on 4th clip down, pilot screw 1-1/4 turns out, all in the BST40. Airbox cut, side door mutilated.
IMS tank, procircuit T4 muffler, TAG 1-1/8" bars, MJM custom seat.
Lots of other cool stuff.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:48 pm 
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dmsantam wrote:
dhardesthard wrote:
dmsantam wrote:
do you need to replace the valve cover gaskets when adjusting valves?i was going to check mine this weekend, but don't have the gaskets. will order them if they're necessary.

D

Most people recommend replacing the valve cover seals. I have removed my valve covers at least ten times each time reusing the old seals and there have been no oil leaks. I reuse the old seals after wiping them clean and replacing in exactly the same position as they were prior to removal. It would be advisable to have a spare set of seals just incase the old ones leak.


makes sense. i'll just check them, and order the seals if they leak. i have two bikes anyway so it can wait :s_thumbsup

Same goes for the two rubber seal when you change the oil filter. Reuse after wiping clean in the same original position (cover seal).

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:04 pm 
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Was just about to post "is there a valve adjustment tutorial anywhere?" but searched first. :)
..a

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:17 am 
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I did my 500 mile valve check tonight.
Everything was in spec, though the left intake was ... mmmaybe slightly loser than the right sight, so I figured I'd use it as a valve-adjustment-practice opportunity to see how the valve adjustment goes.

The 10mm nut was very tight. In order to get a better grip I moved the wrench handle forward a bit, not realizing that it was resting on the engine case, only gripping the nut halfway. So, consistent with my motorcycle maintenance experience so far, I stripped the upper half of the nut.

Fortunately, I can still wriggle the tool on the nut ... but I decided to postpone my learning experience until my next valve check.

If I had blundered enough to fully strip the nut, could I replace it with any off-the-shelf nut?

Also, is it normal for the valve lock nuts to be so tight?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:33 am 
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I posted my technique over on ADV a while back. Might of interest to some?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost ... tcount=371

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Probably a dumb question but just to be sure,

It appears the exhaust valves are going to be towards the front of the bike and the intake valves close to the carb?

I have yet to take off the valve covers and not sure if they look any different inside. Just ordered the wrench and feelers and gaskets from P.C. and want to be sure.


:good:


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:20 pm 
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Captain Obvious wrote:
Probably a dumb question but just to be sure,

It appears the exhaust valves are going to be towards the front of the bike and the intake valves close to the carb?

I have yet to take off the valve covers and not sure if they look any different inside. Just ordered the wrench and feelers and gaskets from P.C. and want to be sure.


:good:

Yes that is correct. Exhaust valves are closest to the exhaust pipe (front) and the inlet valves are closest to carb (Rear). Not a dumb question. Best to be sure. Make sure you are checking/adjusting the correct valve clearances before changing any of the clearances. The exhaust valves carry twice the gap of the intake valves which should give you a clue as to which is which. If in doubt don't hesitate to ask.

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