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You are saying the rim offset needs to be readjusted in the front to center the rim between the fork legs?? I had to resolve the same issue on mine, its dead center now.

And you are running a 140/80-17 Distanza in the rear with clearance issues? I'm guessing the clearance issue is near the front of the swingarm where it tapers toward the swingarm pivot? I'm running Contiforce SM's 150/60-17. An 80 aspect ratio has a taller sidewall and overall tire height. The Distanza appears to be available in a 150/60-17. Pro Cycle would know if that would fit without clearance issues. The shorter sidewall rear tire doesn't look as cool from a side view as a 70 or 80 series tire...but the lower profile does provide less sidewall flex, and improves street handling, and the 150 puts more rubber on the road. A 160 is not recommended for a 4.25" wide rim and the tire width starts to have an adverse effect on steering and chain clearance issues as well. I hear you will need the narrower 520 chain with the 160. Also a lower profile tire may not be wise to go rock crawling with either. To get the wheel into the swingarm with the 150 all I did was take the chain guide off the swingarm and slid it forward on the chain, after the wheel was bolted up I reinstalled the chain guide. Doing this makes it less of a squeeze between the caliper and chain guide and the wheel goes right into place. No problemo.

Tech23

yeah, moving the front offset a little shouldn't be a big deal. i dont want to have to dismount the tire for an 1/8" though. :( we'll see how it goes.

in the rear i'm only catching the edge of the fender liner on the drive side, so trimming that isn't a big deal. it's dead center between the chain & swingarm.

i'd rather have the lower profile, but this tire set was cheap! i paid $115 for the pair shipped from a guy on ADV, tires have maybe 200mi on them.

whenever this rear wears out i'll go to the lower profile, hopefully that's not until next year sometime. :D

i managed to solve the problem without messing with the wheel. just took off an 1/8" off the factory KX axle to allow it to move over further in the fork clamps. all good now.

a mate has left his 2000 model husky SM610 at my place for a few months.

some observations so far...

my dr with off road gearing will eat it across the street lights, after that but...

it has a far better top end speed than the dr.

i've ridden a motard dr with the works, and the husky eats it overall.

i'm thinking that i'll leave my dr in off road trim and drink lots with mate to acquire husky for road duties...

it is not at all surprising that a husky sm610 will outperform a fully 'tarded dr650. stock, the dr weighs ~20 more dry, and gives up ~20%hp - 43 vs 53. but, you can lose a bit of weight on the dr by ditching the stock muffler, and close the hp gap w/header/midpipe/muffler/carb updates, and still be ahead dollar-wise, as well as be more trouble-free. spend more for cam/big-bore/etc, and you will exceed the sm610 in hp, and you can run stock or taller than stock gearing, instead of off-road gearing. (actually, +1t on the front sprocket equals stock gearing w/a typical sm rear tire.) how was the motard dr's engine/carb/exhaust set up?

doug s.

I love whoopin on sportbike squids! I used to be one hahah. Good story.

I think I actually rode faster on an older DR with stock wheel setup than my sumo'd out DR. I'm thinkin of switching back to stock wheel setup and perhaps sellin the sumo wheels since I have a sportbike anyway

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