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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:22 am 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:12 am
Posts: 88
Location: Modesto, CA
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If it's the first start of the day
-pull the choke, hold the decomp lever, give it 6 or more hearty kicks usually pretty quick kicks, 1 kick to release the decomp then let the kicker back up about 2/3 or the way and i hear that beautiful sound...... maybe 2 kicks if it's really cold but i live in central California so that's not usually a problem

If i'm starting after work so it's not really cold just not warm yet
-pull the choke to the first setting, maybe 2 or 3 hearty kicks with decomp on and then 1 more and away i go.

If it's warm and say i stopped to get gets
-no choke, maybe 1 kick with decomp just so i can get my kickstarter in the position I like it and away i go.

lol oddly enough my 650 is 10 times easier to kick start than my 350, but i'd rather rely on my leg than that little plastic easy button.

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'90 Dr 650s All the normal mods plus some of my own added flare =)

'91 Dr 350e New engine and just in time for the rain and mud

'96 Xr 100 (recently sold.... yeah that was a stupid move)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:57 pm
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Also while I'm thinking about it if you have the stock exhaust there is a drain bolt in the bottom of the muffler take it out and put it in your toolbox and never worry about it again in won't be much louder if any at all and your bike will start

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1990 Suzuki DR650 kindamotard


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:57 pm
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Also while I'm thinking about it if you have the stock exhaust there is a drain bolt in the bottom of the muffler take it out and put it in your toolbox and never worry about it again in won't be much louder if any at all and your bike will start alot easier

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1990 Suzuki DR650 kindamotard


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:24 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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millis90 wrote:
On my 90' I pull the decompretion level kick slowly untill level clicks and goes back up, bring kick lever back up, give good solid kick, starts 2nd kick EVERYTIME!


That's what I do with my 92. Petcock open, key on, decomp lever in and turn the engine till it pops back up (assuming the engine is cold, full choke), then kick that sucker hard and it starts right up.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 24
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kstoo wrote:
tractorking wrote:
Prime (cold)
Key off, petcock to prime, hold comp lever, 6 kicks, choke on.

Key on, petcock to normal.

Start up (primed or warm)
Push kick starter til it stops (TDC), kickstarter to top, pull comp lever and release,
Kick it over, repeat, it should start now.

In short 6 priming kicks, 2 start kicks when cold.
2 kicks no choke when warmed up.

Works everytime.


That sounds believable and practical except for the part about the compression release. Isn't it pull the lever, push the kick start slowly until the lever resets, then top the kick start and haul on it?


THIS IS THE CORRECT METHOD! That long list of kicking and priming is complete crap!

1. Turn key to on.

2. Turn petcock to prime unless previously running.

3. No throttle, pull decomp lever till it clicks and stays rearward.

4. PUSH lever slowly till decomp lever pops out aka reset position. THIS IS TDC!!!

5. NOW, FULL KICK!!!

It's that simple. No priming kicks or any of that nonsense. If cold, you should know to use the choke.

THIS IS HOW THE MANUAL STATES THE PROCEDURE FOR STARTING!

It works without the B.S..


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 5:55 pm 
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MSF Student
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2015 11:27 pm
Posts: 25
Location: NC USA
I don't know what "prime position" on the petcock is. I have -off-reserve-on

Also, someone mentioned they had their mixture screw 2 turns out. I have the TM 40 pumper carb. I have looked at crappy diagrams.
Is the air mix screw the brass one in the front of carb, at the bottom, pointed downwards? Any suggestions on a good starting point?
Any suggestions on a good starting point for idle?

I have modified choke, pull it out or leave it in. Bike is running rough, but want to get basic settings before essing with the carb. The previous, previous owner did a lot of work, and I think he was competent. The guy I bought it from knew the gear pattern....maybe.


I have searched here, TT, looked at Zen's Pumper links, etc. Not getting lazy on you guys. But I a 54 and getting real tired kicking the beast.


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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 24
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Twist1 wrote:
I don't know what "prime position" on the petcock is. I have -off-reserve-on

Also, someone mentioned they had their mixture screw 2 turns out. I have the TM 40 pumper carb. I have looked at crappy diagrams.
Is the air mix screw the brass one in the front of carb, at the bottom, pointed downwards? Any suggestions on a good starting point?
Any suggestions on a good starting point for idle?

I have modified choke, pull it out or leave it in. Bike is running rough, but want to get basic settings before essing with the carb. The previous, previous owner did a lot of work, and I think he was competent. The guy I bought it from knew the gear pattern....maybe.


I have searched here, TT, looked at Zen's Pumper links, etc. Not getting lazy on you guys. But I a 54 and getting real tired kicking the beast.


Okay, carb isn't obviously stock, and if your petcock doesn't have a prime position, it's not stock either. I just recently put a TM40 on mine, and there is a plug that can be removed to run the cv carb vacuum line. You don't have it because you don't need it.

I'm waiting to get my bike taken in. Still doing little things to prep it, but I'll give more info once I get it back.

And I hear you. I'm 50 and my joints are getting tired.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 24
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Proper procedure, and this is according to the manual. Dismiss every statement that is not EXACTLY like this. They are NOT the proper method of starting! https://youtu.be/YkAOFQtfReg


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