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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:40 pm
Posts: 17
Location: New Brunswick
So, new to me DR650, 2009. Right off, I traded in a TW200 for it and that was the only bike I've ever owned (or ridden, for that matter).
I found with quads and Jeeps, because I'd be down at the 'mellow' end of the usage scale, intake and exhaust mods can often be more trouble than they're worth...and that's just me and the fact that I just don't need to squeeze more out of a machine that already performs at a level way higher than I can.

So, got the DR at a used powersports dealer so I didn't get the benefit of being able to get the details on what's been fiddled with. I have a feeling that the stock exhaust might have sat on a shelf a long time and been reinstalled for the trade-in..it doesn't share any of the scuffs and scratches that the rest of the bike does. I also found the airbox snorkel had been removed and there's a K&N filter in the airbox.

Everything's likely fine, and it certainly runs fine (for me) with the exception of a small surge at lower speeds, and it bugged me the first couple time I rode it, but now I hardly notice it.

I always thought that you were just wasting your time trying to haul more air in with airbox mods and stuff if you weren't able to flow that extra air out the other end. (another reason for my suspicions on the bike maybe having a pipe until trade-in time).

I haven't had it long enough to be able to get an idea on the fuel economy but for the places I'll be going, better fuel economy is more important to me than an extra 1.346 HP.

So...given that the bike probably had a pipe, had a K&N filter, has the snorkel removed, I'm thinking there's a chance that it's had carb work done too. I've been wrenching on my stuff all my life, but I have learned that (for ME) carbs fall into same category as erections; if you want to keep 'em, don't f*** with 'em. If I open up something that has tiny little parts in it, it's pretty much doomed to have a tool used on it that's more suited for removing a ball joint or something.

Any dead give-away I could likely see (I swear I won't touch it!) just by looking at the carb that would tell me (you) that it's been jetted, etc?

I'd also like to know, if it hasn't been jetted, drilled, etc...it there any actual gain to running that K&N and no snorkel? I think (and read) too much, and I've heard a lot of bad press on K&N air filters letting a lot of dirt past. If the K&N is doing nothing for me but letting dirt go by it, I'd sooner toss it and put a good foam filter back on there that will do a good job at stopping dirt.

The bike's working fine now, although I really have no baseline to compare it too it seems A1 with no driveability issues, starts easy, has more than enough power for me....
Not really looking for problems where there aren't any, mainly just looking to get to know my new riding partner the best I can.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:35 am 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2014 5:12 pm
Posts: 2652
Location: South Central PA
You cannot tell what's been done to the inside of the carb just by looking at the outside.

Removing the snorkel has no ill effect even with stock jetting and exhaust it will still flow a bit more air.

If you ride in dusty conditions ditch the K&N and get a foam filter element. Gauze "high flow" filters flow lots of air but do a poor job of filtering fine particulate.

As for the surging it can be easily corrected. Shimming the needle, accessing and properly adjusting the A/F screw and 99% or more of the surge goes away. Vacuum carbs are not hard to work on and really do not have a lot of small parts. If you go to any Suzuki parts retailer and look at an exploded view of a carb you can see how it comes apart and goes back together. Hardest part is breaking the JIS screws on the float bowl. Do not use Phillips head screw drivers or you'll strip the heads of the screws. Either get the right tool of do what I do. Cut a slot in the head of the screw with dremel and then use a screwdriver to remover the fastener. Replace with Allen head fasteners.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2010 9:22 pm
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Location: San Diego County, CA, USA
First off - congrats! An indicator someone MAY have been in the carb is the installation of a fuel screw. Look at the engine side of your carb. Pointing down, toward the top, is a round portion. This comes with a brass plug in it, with a factory installed fuel mixture screw set under it. It seems if folks are inclined to go inside the carb, they also pull that plug out and install a screw. If there's a screw adjustment sticking out, at least you know that's done.
https://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems - I went with the Deluxe Fuel Screw

Re: Air filter. Especially if you plan on riding dirt, at least get the foam sleeve for the K&N. I like the TwinAir filter so I've been using that on my DR's.
https://procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#fuelsystems

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:24 pm
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Location: The inhabitants refer to it as the planet "Earth".
PerazziMx14 wrote:
As for the surging it can be easily corrected. Shimming the needle, accessing and properly adjusting the A/F screw and 99% or more of the surge goes away.
While shimming the needle clip will certainly richen the mixture, on a BST-series carburetor it will do so lowering the slide rather than by raising the needle (except when the slide is against either stop), as the shim increases the preload on the slide spring. Increased preload means that more force (i.e. more velocity) will be required to lift the slide off of the stop (meaning that it begin lifting later in terms of throttle position and rpm).

The idle mixture screw on a BST40 carburetor is a fuel screw (there is no such thing as an "A/F screw"). Setting procedure:

Start the engine, let it warm up and ride the bike around until it's hot. Using the idle speed screw, adjust the idle speed to 1500 rpm (use a digital tachometer). Adjust the fuel screw so the CO is ~3-3.5%. If gas analysis is not available, coming from the lean side, adjust the fuel screw so that the strongest idle is achieved. You will notice there is a threshold where it becomes rich enough (enough turns out) to run strongest, beyond which no change is noticed. Adjust the idle mixture screw ~1/8-1/4 turn out from this threshold. Adjust the idle speed back to 1500 rpm (as it is likely to have changed). Leave the mixture to the leaner side of these settings if the bike will be seeing altitudes much higher than the one it was set at. Set to the richer side if you would like the engine to idle well earlier during warm up. An extended fuel screw simplifies the process and allows adjustments on the fly. For diagnostic purposes, report back with the resultant number of turns.

While a new, as delivered surge would be pretty much guaranteed to be a lean surge, the same can't be said for a used DR with however many miles and whatever possible injustices committed to the carburetor, where it could just as easily be a richness problem. The OP should be able to figure out which it is by determining whether the symptom improves or gets worse as the engine warms and/or by the number of turns the fuel screw ends up at when adjusted by the aforementioned method.
Quote:
If you go to any Suzuki parts retailer and look at an exploded view of a carb you can see how it comes apart and goes back together.
The throttle slide guide and throttle shaft seals won't be covered.
Quote:
Hardest part is breaking the JIS screws on the float bowl. Do not use Phillips head screw drivers or you'll strip the heads of the screws.
A hand impact driver (the kind you strike with a hammer) works well (of course given that you use the right bit).

Regards,

Derek


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:19 pm
Posts: 29
Location: San Diego, Mexifornia
Open the carb, it's not really complicated.

That way you can check jets and wear parts and (if needed) replace them... it'll also give you a good idea how things work.

Once you put it back together, replace (as mentioned) the original screws with allen heads.

That way, you have peace of mind and the knowledge that things are the way they are supposed to be, instead of guessing and wondering.

Although, some people like that...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:40 pm
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Location: New Brunswick
Thanks for all the input!! I'll hopefully get a chance to have a good look over the carb and see if I can see anything out of the ordinary. I made the trade because it's a nice clean bike, ie: unmolested and anything that WAS done isn't a hack job. Suzuki skidplate, Suzuki rear rack, the cow ears are still on there, tool kit intact, all other parts and pieces are where they're supposed to be. 6000kms is all that's on it, so I'm not going to open the carb up unless I have to as nothing should be worn yet. I'll pay more attention to that low speed surge and see what I can see.
I yanked that tiny fuel filter out and it had a few specs of dirt but nothing surprising. I tossed it and put a small inline filter.
Got a tailbag sorted out and a set of tank saddlebags that I picked up at Princess Auto (the great white north version of Harbour Freight), put on the pivoting risers that I bought for the TW but never installed because put Moose ATV-hi bars instead. ...making it mine, so to speak.
I pulled out the air filter...pulled out...no, more like solved a Rubik's Cube with one hand, in the dark, underwater...The K&N only comes out one way..and there's a lot of twisting and turning to find the secret...It's clean and it's oiled, so for the moment, that's good enough for me. Riding season's getting close to being over so I'll start buying up parts and changing stuff over the winter.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:19 pm
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Location: San Diego, Mexifornia
What is this "Winter" thing you speak of???

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2016 5:07 pm
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Location: Elkhart, IN
signit98 wrote:
What is this "Winter" thing you speak of???
I miss So. Cal...


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:43 pm 
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Location: New Brunswick
signit98 wrote:
What is this "Winter" thing you speak of???


This is fall at the camp.
Image
.
.

This is a mild winter at the camp.
Image
.
.
And this is winter if you've just bought a motorcycle in the fall.
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:27 am 
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Location: Mackinaw City, MI, USA
GCFishguy wrote:
And this is winter if you've just bought a motorcycle in the fall.
Image


:roflao

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