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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:43 am 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2017 5:12 pm
Posts: 129
Location: Central CA. coast
You've likely checked already, but make sure you remove & inspect the tiny plastic 1" fuel filter at the carb inlet.

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'14 DR650, FMF PC4, 6F19 needle @4th pos, Idle screw @1.75 turns out, Stock 140 MJ 42.5 PJ, Stock air filters, deleted snorkel & smog, 1-5/8" pvc fork spacers, +6 preload turns @ rear shock: 3.25" race sag, Tusk 'KTM' fatbars, TT Endurance II.

Delete: chain roller, chain guard/tabs, horn, blinkers, mirrors, grab bars, clutch/kickstand switches, rear fender, pass. pegs, stock muffler, speedo/cable. To do: lower roller, JNS pegs, 2" wider seat, S/S brakes, FCR39, LED headlight


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:48 am 
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Single Tracker
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:32 pm
Posts: 173
Location: Twin Falls Idaho
+1 on that pesky fuel filter.:good:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:32 pm
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Location: Twin Falls Idaho
check for a stuck float as well. make sure you have a good amount of fuel flowing from the float bowl with the drain screw open.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:58 pm 
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Newbie
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Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2017 1:24 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Ventura, CA
Thanks for all the ideas and tips everyone. Had a busy week of work but finally did a full carb cleaning/rebuild today. Replaced all the o-rings, set the float height, new float needle, etc. and blew everything out with compressed air. Also completely removed the carb inlet filter. Tried to start and still had the exact same results. Ugh. Also, the plugs are wet and smell like gas/oil after attempting to start. The motor will occasionally fire for a millisecond, maybe just for a moment after the compression stroke, but I'm not sure.

My next step is to check if I have a faulty CDI box. Currently on the hunt for a running DR near Ventura, CA so I can swap in a working unit without spending $500+...let me know if you guys can help me track one down.

After that, my next thought is to tear into the motor. Even with a 95% leakdown test at TDC, I'm wondering if there could be something else going wrong in there? Maybe cam lobes/auto-decompressor or even the piston arm. I'm no expert here, any other thoughts would be great to hear. Thanks again dudes (cracks another beer)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:40 am 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:09 pm
Posts: 104
Location: Matawan, NJ
Hello again, Sounds like your pulling out your hair on this one. If the plugs are wet it sounds like a spark problem. I thought I read that you had a consistent blue spark when you checked ??? The CDI swap test sounds like a good idea,if you can get a loaner. I would double check all fuses and relays and look for by frayed or broken wires . Go over it with a fine tooth comb. Could be something as simple as that. I know I'm guilty of overlooking something that was staring me in the face. Good Luck


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:03 pm 
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Location: Ventura, CA
mariom1 wrote:
Hello again, Sounds like your pulling out your hair on this one. If the plugs are wet it sounds like a spark problem. I thought I read that you had a consistent blue spark when you checked ??? The CDI swap test sounds like a good idea,if you can get a loaner. I would double check all fuses and relays and look for by frayed or broken wires . Go over it with a fine tooth comb. Could be something as simple as that. I know I'm guilty of overlooking something that was staring me in the face. Good Luck


Yea definitely a good idea to go through the wiring harness again, thanks for the diagram, super helpful. Currently hopeful that it's the CDI since I'm getting a blue spark, figured if I had a frayed wire or bad relay I wouldn't be getting much (or anything) at the plugs. Will post an update when I work on the bike next.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2017 1:24 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Ventura, CA
FOUND IT. Took the stator side cover off the motor last night and confirmed a suspicion I'd had...a loose pulsar coil. The two screws holding the pulsar coil into the cover had backed out, which would cause the motor to fire briefly and then die since the coil would wobble out of position. In fact, one of the screws backed completely out and fell down into the motor, but luckily it had wedged itself at the bottom of the casing next to the crankcase oil separator plate. I was able to fish it out still intact. It appears that this screw must've fallen out VERY recently, because the damage to the pickup coil is minimal along with the screw. I had tried to start the bike yesterday morning during some tests and it was the first time I hadn't heard the bike fire even for just a moment...I'm guessing that was when it fell out. Last week, the pulsar coil tested within spec at 219 ohms, so I tested it again last night to make sure I wasn't crazy and now the reading is infinity (due to the damage from hitting the generator rotor). I've got a new pulsar coil coming from ProCycle and should be up and running sometime next week.

Seems like the big lesson here is that even if your pulsar coil passes the resistance test, it could be loose and consequently act like an intermittently failing coil. So check that before buying a new CDI. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, stoked to be riding again soon.

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Last edited by bryanseeee on Sat Oct 07, 2017 1:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:15 pm 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:09 pm
Posts: 104
Location: Matawan, NJ
Whew, Got lucky with the screw. Lucky it didn't start. I'm glad there was no serious damage. :2_thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:23 am 
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Member Servant
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 am
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Location: Mackinaw City, MI, USA
mariom1 wrote:
Whew, Got lucky with the screw. Lucky it didn't start. I'm glad there was no serious damage. :2_thumbsup:

^^^ +1 :NailBite:

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