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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:26 pm 
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DR650 Limits Tester
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:04 am
Posts: 1927
Location: Summerfield NC
no kidding, thanks Jeff ill give him a shout.

this is why i posted this on a motorcycle form..............i got a more helpful response that the donzi forms lol

_________________
Brandon,
2006 DR650 Race Bike: FMF power bomb header, FMF power core 4, DDC and Race Tech springs, Cogent Mojave Pro Series, Ohllins spring, Pro taper bars, Clarke 3.7 tank, Seat Concepts seat, air box mod, Twin air filter, sumo fender, Acme Zoom panniers, off road gearing, Warp 9 Gold hubs and Black wheels, 320MM big brake kit, TM40 Carb, Mad Man Engineering built head, decked cylinder, engine assembled and tuned by VAR.

03 sprinter motobus
Donzi Z-25


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:35 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Thu Feb 10, 2011 2:46 pm
Posts: 5189
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From PMs with Mongle:

Quote:
Off hand sounds like a piston pin doesn't have enough clearance on it. Running down the lake everything heats up equally then when you pull the throttles back the block cools quick (due to unlimited water supply), then the piston cools next. The alumn. piston shrinks faster than the steel pin. This causes the pin to want to stick which causes a knocking noise. Let everything cool (equalize) then it goes away. Doesn't do it on warm up because the piston grows faster than the pin. I see this a lot if someone has pressed the pin into the rod instead of heating the rod and sliding it in. Pressing them in causes the piston to get "pinched" sometimes in the pin hole.

Hope this helps.


Quote:
Read further on. He finally had a rod let go and is going to swap in a stroker crate motor. But... needs cam choice advice. I'll be happy to relay any comments you have.

thanks


Quote:
Whoops, didn't see the rest. Guess I was right about the pin. LOL


So, Ford: Ford did not have the flat tappet camshaft problems Chevy did. Mostly because the lifters are larger in diameter. A flat tappet cam wouldn't scare me a bit in a Ford.

For any Flat tappet engine break in is the most important aspect. The first 20 minutes of engine running will decide the life of the cam. Engine should not be idled- AT ALL for first 20 minutes. Keep engine in the 1500-2000 rpm range. Every 2-3 minutes vary the rpm up or down by 200-300rpm. Keep doing this for the 20 minutes. I usually have someone give me a hand during this time watching oil pressures, watching carb for overflow issues (bad for new rings), or watching EFI for any codes, and they also adjust timing to keep exhaust gas temps down during this time. After break in of the camshaft then you can move on to other checklist items and ring break in.

A break in oil with high concentrations of Zinc and Phos. are very important for flat tappet cams. Or a normal oil with an additive. Once broke in I still recommend oils with Zinc and Phos. (just not as high PPM). So that eliminates almost all oils below 10w-40 weight or catalytic converter safe. For marine I stick with 30w straight rate oil.

Again, hope this helps.

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Everything for your DR650 and lots of other keen stuff!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:45 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Thu Feb 10, 2011 2:46 pm
Posts: 5189
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PM sent :drinks:

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Everything for your DR650 and lots of other keen stuff!
DR900 Stroker Project
TurboDiesel Corvette


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:53 pm 
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DR650 Limits Tester
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:04 am
Posts: 1927
Location: Summerfield NC
thanks Jeff!

_________________
Brandon,
2006 DR650 Race Bike: FMF power bomb header, FMF power core 4, DDC and Race Tech springs, Cogent Mojave Pro Series, Ohllins spring, Pro taper bars, Clarke 3.7 tank, Seat Concepts seat, air box mod, Twin air filter, sumo fender, Acme Zoom panniers, off road gearing, Warp 9 Gold hubs and Black wheels, 320MM big brake kit, TM40 Carb, Mad Man Engineering built head, decked cylinder, engine assembled and tuned by VAR.

03 sprinter motobus
Donzi Z-25


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