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 Post subject: Front Sprockets changes
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 1:43 am 
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When looking around for information on the DR before purchase, and after. Could not find any in regards to chain length on multiple sprockets.

As time has passed while trying different set-ups of sprockets and tires, have decided to show a quick vid. on the subject.
Which it's great that all three work with the stock chain (have been told that the stock chain is better than switching to a 520)

Note: some one has posted that to be ware of the 13 T in relation to the chain roller having more stress (am not a pro).

:2_thumbsup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x8DcTe ... 68&index=1


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 12:20 pm 
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I run the 13T on occasion; I also have performed upper chain roller delete.

I think you maybe confusing chain roller with the chain guide plate on the swing arm near the pivot point. Smaller CSs definitely cause more wear in this area, but the guide is like tires and grips: consumables and easily changed if necesary.

The same chain can be used to run 13-16T if you cut it to the proper length.

One CS tooth change is worth "1" on the chain cam adjusters...


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:15 am 
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Thanks for the info. (you are correct) appreciate all the help I can get. Besides being my first DR , just got back on dirt after many, many years.

Posted the quick vid. because when searching for chain lengths info., could not find it.

Am pretty happy that I can use this stock chain on all 3 sprockets.

Is it correct that the stock chain is better than the 520?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:18 am 
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Define "better".

A 525 chain can handle more tensile load than a 520, and theoretically should last longer. In real life there are many other factors that influence chain life other than roller width.

I believe a 520 is more than adequate on the DR. I have seen 520's on Ducati's and BMW S1000R's or a Husaberg 650 monster. It will do fine on the DR. That said, why would you change?

I'd be more worried about how tight the front sprocket fits the splines. Too loose is not good imho.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:38 am 
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I saw a posting stating that (it was a question/comment) the stock is better, that's all (am not a pro, just learning).

Others stated that since there are more options than in previous years (sprockets), there is no need to change.

Thank's for the info. :2_thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:49 pm 
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IMO the stock 525 chain will last longer than the lighter 520 with comparable use. The heavier gauge makes the 525 chain more resistant to stretching, so adjusting the chain slack is rarely needed ... lower maintenance. A 520 chain may have more gearing options, and I suppose the 520 chain is more readily available in places like South America, where 250cc bikes are more typical, if you happen to be making a trip down that way.
:s_cool

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:59 pm 
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Thanks for the info. (purchase the manual when i got the bike)

I was just very happy when realizing that all 3 sizes work with the stock.

Today will remove the upper chain roller, have been learning many things a little at a time.

Thank's again! :2_thumbsup:

PS: When watching a lot of vids on the dr before and after purchase, was surprise not to find much info. on the sprockets, specially the youtube "adventure oz" (this guy is a fantastic pro, and has a lot of info.)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:54 pm 
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WoodRat wrote:
IMO the stock 525 chain will last longer than the lighter 520 with comparable use. The heavier gauge makes the 525 chain more resistant to stretching,
:s_cool


We may call it stretching, but a chain doesn't stretch. It's not a rubber band. Steel does not stretch, and if it does breaking is neigh! :P

A chain gets longer as a result from wear between the pins and the sintered bush (see pic)

Image

Yes, of course it takes more time to wear away if the bush is wider, but the difference is not that big (6/16' v 5/16" = 20% in favor of the 525). The wear between the bush and the roller may be more important. The pin-bush area is sealed off with the O-ring, the roller-pin area is far more exposed to the elements. The outside of the roller is in direct contact with the sprockets, and exposed to dust, sand rain etc.

Image

No way we can prevent wear here, nature of the beast. The only thing we can do here apart from lubing the chain, is also cleaning the sprockets every now and then.

So, the sprockets wear, and so does the the outside of the roller. The inside of the roller in turn rubs against the bush. As a result the roller becomes smaller on the outside, and at the same time the inside diameter wears out. A worn chain is easy to recognize by how loose the rollers are.

Image

To put things in perspective, a properly lubed 520 lasts longer than a poorly lubed 525.

my $0.02 :s_crazy

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Max Kool wrote:
We may call it stretching, but a chain doesn't stretch. It's not a rubber band. Steel does not stretch, and if it does breaking is neigh! :P ... A chain gets longer as a result from wear between the pins and the sintered bush (see pic) ...
Thanks for the exposé, but when as you say, "A chain gets longer as a result from wear ... " in English at least, we still say the drive chain length "stretches" from wear because this word is synonymous with "increasing length". Granted good maintenance increases chain life whatever size you happen to be using.
:s_cool

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 9:00 pm 
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An excellent presentation of how drive chains get longer with wear.

Never knew about the sintered bush before.

Thanks.

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