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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:21 am 
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This put into perspective just how wide the front tire and rim are. The brake line bracket does rub when the tire flexes in a hard corner as you can see by A) the white line on the tire and B) the small angle worn into the bottom inside corner of the mount. I do keep an eye on it but don't feel the need to make any changes as there isn't any gouging or actual damage happening. I threw some electrical tape to keep the wires for the speed sensor out of harms way as well.
Image

I just zip tied the sensor onto the bottom of the fork tube since it wouldn't exactly fit between the rotor and the relocation bracket. Works well and is easily adjustable since the magnet bolt that comes with the Vapor is the correct size thread for the stock DR hub, I'll just slide her down to align with the bolt when changing wheels. The bolts on this hub are smaller than stock so the Vapor magnet bolt does not fit.
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The bolt that is closest to the fork is where I initially epoxied the magnet to but there isn't enough room on the flip side. When the bolt rotated around to the 6 o'clock position, the bottom of the fork knocked it loose (away from the hub). So I placed it in its current location and did a clearance test. Once I was sure there wouldn't be any interference, I put a small dab of Crazy Glue on the back of the magnet and put it in place with some needle nose pliers. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES IF YOU DO THIS!!! You do NOT want the strength of that magnet to slam onto the rotor and send glue into your eyes. Top it of with a small bead of JB Weld around the seam and she's good to go. I ride this bike to work daily and average 75-80mph for about 20 minutes each way, I have also topped it out at 108 and the magnet has yet to move a mm.
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Here you can see just how close the caliper is to the rim with that big 320mm rotor on and why it is necessary to unbolt the caliper and remove the pads to snake the caliper out when it comes time to remove the front wheel. Also, note how dangerously close to the tire and rotor that brake line would be if it were ran in the factory route behind the fork, even with all of the slack taken out. I do not plan to put the 320mm floating rotor on this set mainly because I kinda like the wave rotor more for the motard. I will instead put the floater on my stock wheel so that I don't have to worry about mounting/removing the relocation bracket each time I go from street trim to dirt and back. When in dirt trim with the 21” wheel, I will have the brake line in the factory position to keep it from getting damaged out on the trails.
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This is the rear brake that comes installed on the hub regardless of what kit you get unless you select the “No Rotors (front and rear)” option on the drop down menu.
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This is the best picture I could get of the cush hub with the wheel mounted on the bike. That is the stock sprocket and will remain on there until the next time I change to dirt trim and put the 520 stuff on. Those bolts were included with the set, but the rubbers are not so I reused mine since they were in fantastic shape and had only about 3500 miles on them. If you want a set for the dirt and a set for the street, then by all means, they're only $45. I plan on ordering another set with my next shipment so that I can do just that.
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This is how the set is shipped (motard fender and Vapor came in a separate package the next day). Everything has (I think) All Ballz Racing bearings already installed, which I did not know and had already ordered a set from ProCycle which will now be going on my dirt set. They also include the required spacers for the front rim and have them labeled so that you don't have to guess which spacer goes on which side. You will have to reuse your stock rear spacers though.
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I have not personally worked with the kits from Motostrano or ProCycle, but given the customization options and the ability to pick and choose parts, the Moto-X-Industries kit was a very easy choice for me to make and absolutely love it. Make sure you order the shorty kickstand unless you have plans to cut yours down, there is no way the stock one will work on a motard

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2012 DR650SM/SE with a LOT of work done
1998/9 DR650SE: trying to decide to keep and build to the moon or sell
adam728 wrote:
Don't lose any sleep over it. It's a DR, a two wheeled farm tractor. Not a space shuttle.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:57 am 
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 12:11 pm 
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Looking at the pics of the bike compared to the unboxing of the wheels...b!+ch needs a BATH

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2012 DR650SM/SE with a LOT of work done
1998/9 DR650SE: trying to decide to keep and build to the moon or sell
adam728 wrote:
Don't lose any sleep over it. It's a DR, a two wheeled farm tractor. Not a space shuttle.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 7:29 pm 
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Not too shabby Brewsky. I'll have to look into that set.

From the comments I assume that the difference between having a cush drive or not is night and day? What does a cush drive actually do?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 7:42 pm 
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Cush drive does two things

1. it smoothes out the torque pulses of the single cylinder engine, protecting the transmission
2. it smoothes out the torque pulses of the single cylinder engine, protecting the rear wheel (I've seen sumo'd KTM 450 smash the rear wheel hub)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:11 pm 
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My $0.02 on cush drives is they don't really matter. I've read several reports of riders that went to a non-cush hub and couldn't tell a difference. Our own expert DR rider, crash mentioned something to this affect after switching to new custom wheels a while back. In '98-99, Suzuki sold the DR350SE models with no cush drive even though all prior years had a cush drive. I don't know their reasoning, but I do know that I don't notice any ill effects on my '99 350 model. Added weight and the single row bearing on the sprocket hub is prone to failure. If I were buying new wheels for my bike, it would be the non-cush version.

Again, just my $0.02...

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'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:29 pm 
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If you mostly ride dirt, sure. If you do a lot of street or even hardpack, don't.

You may not "feel" it, but it will introduce a higher strain on the gearbox and rear hub.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:01 pm 
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Max Kool wrote:
If you mostly ride dirt, sure. If you do a lot of street or even hardpack, don't.

You may not "feel" it, but it will introduce a higher strain on the gearbox and rear hub.

As I said, my DR350 came from the factory with a non-cush hub...lots of these bikes out there with high mileage and gearbox issues are very rare. Non-cush drives have the sprocket mounted directly to the hub. Maybe the sprocket or chain wears out faster, but the wheel hub shouldn't be the weak link. Gear stress? Most thumpers see a fair amount of chain whip even with a cush hub which will cause a similar cyclic loading on the gears.

Maybe you're right...but I've yet to see any proof that cush drives are necessary.

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'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:41 pm 
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350 has a lot less torque. So yeah.

Google on XR650R and cush ;-)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 12:25 am 
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Mixed comments on the 650R too. The quote below is from the link listed below. The other interesting fact that I read on that link is that the 650L doesn't have a cush hub either. I looked it up on a parts fiche and some wheels on ebay to confirm it. Similar power/torque as the DR and lots of them out there with high mileage and no gearbox issues.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1087733-xr650r-on-the-road-with-no-cush-drive/

Quote:
my 2000 650R have been streetlegal and ridden dualsport without any cush since it was new, me personally have owned the bike for eight or nine years I think, some offroad, some ice, a lot of street, bike is still running hard, the gearbox have never missed a beat and feels firm and positive.

I don't really push the bike that hard though, except for the occasional wheelie....

a cush drive would of course be beneficial, but unless you do supermoto\hard riding on tarmac, I wouldn't consider it a mandatory upgrade.

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'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


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