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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 2:33 am 
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Location: Queensland Australia
Hi all,

Budget suspension mods!

Has anyone here welded up the damper rod holes and drilled out smaller?

If yes what size did you go?

I'm looking at modifying my stock suspension was thinking Spring upgrade with smaller damper rod holes?

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:00 am 
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Location: In front of a computer inside a house situated on a street within a suburb of a city of a country located on the face of a planet in orbit around a star located within a galaxy somewhere in the ever expanding universe.
New springs and thicker oil is a cheap as it gets.

You wouldn't want to reduce the hole sizes, though you can increase the compression damping holes. Stronger springs don't dive as quick or as much so you need less low speed compression damping. That will help to take some of the edge of the high speed hits.

Though for the sake of a few hundred bucks you should just buy one of the valve options. You will save a lot of time/hassle in trial and error enlarging/reducing the stock holes.

The rear can be handled in much the same way. Stronger spring, thicker oil, fiddle with the compression valving. Unlike the front there's (opinions vary...) not much point spending money on gold valves and the like. Just fiddle with the stock shims until you are happy.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 9:08 am 
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A easier (and more robust) approach is to employ DDCs or emulators.

No disassembly of the damper rod required.

Of course as mentioned by Bob, thicker oil and spring is cheapest.

Have I mentioned how much I love my DDCs? :good:


Last edited by N3YMY on Sun Apr 17, 2016 8:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:21 am 
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I don't mean to offend and I will admit to not knowing everything but; higher iscosity oil or smaller damper rod holes, to me, would constitute a "down grade" to the bike. Keep the stock forks serviced in good condition with the OEM parts and recommendations as a great start. If a low cost upgrade is the objective, I recommend defining the shortcomings of your forks and make actual notes of the problems and objectives. For many, just fitting a set of straight rate springs may help meet those improvement objectives. If fork dive and soft mushy feel is the issue ( I'm assuming based on your thinking of making damper holes smaller) I think a set of springs with appropriate preload would be a help. After that was done, if you wanted further improvement by adding DDC valves or Emulators with little duplication of effort. I really want to stress the point of trying to understand what you don't like and make a change that is technically likely to improve the part of the functional dynamic that you have identified.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 8:36 pm 
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If it were me, listen to Rick, this stuff is he bread and butter.

Did I mention how much I love my DDCs...? :wink:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 4:49 pm 
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Thanks for the replies. I've been researching a bit on the Internet and saw some suspension places 'adjust' damper rod hole size (weld up,drill to their specs) to increase damping. It would be interesting to see one of these fork sets pulled down for service and hole sizes measured.

Otherwise it looks like ddcs, springs and fork oil for me!

As for the rear shock it would be interesting to create a database of what people have done with the shims.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:28 pm 
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Welding and resizing the damper rod holes was the trick thing we used to do back in the 70s. Back when there weren't better options. Smaller holes might work ok if you were trying to set up your DR to handle responsively on smooth roads or to be a trackday bike for a roadracing course. Smaller damper rod holes would certainly make for a harsh front end in any kind of rocks or terrain with lots of sharp edged bumps.

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