www.DRRiders.com

A Dedicated Suzuki DR650 forum for DR650 riders to share their knowledge, experience and adventures!
It is currently Sat May 27, 2017 2:10 am

DRRIDERS.COM Search - powered by Google

DRRIDERS Member Location Map

Place yourself on the map here!

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Forum rules


Please post a concise description of the product in the subject line so other members will have an easier time locating the info they seek. No Hijacking or off topic discussions will be allowed to keep the info short and to the point. All opinions are welcome from members having experience with the subject line product.



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Warp 9 Rear Brake Lever
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 am 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:01 pm
Posts: 2306
Location: Apex, NC
Just finished installing mine tonight...so I'll just state my initial impressions of the design and some of the issues I ran into during the install. Once the DR takes a few dirt naps and I get it properly broken in, I'll post back with an update. Note that my DR has Procycle lowered pegs installed, so the pedal sits a little lower than it will on stock DRs.

Image

Bearing:
The coolest thing about this pedal is that it no longer pivots inside the frame, instead it uses a stainless steel pin that is clamped into position and the pedal pivots on a sealed bearing...albeit a single side seal. The only part that concerns me is that the brake pedal now uses this bearing for lateral support. There isn't any side-to-side free play in the pedal, but if you apply some force to it, it will move more easily than the stock pedal. However, the pedal tip is spring loaded which should help limit the amount of lateral load going into the pedal if you drop it on the brake side. Time will tell...

Springs:
Both spring holes are in the center of the lever instead of being offset towards the top like the stock lever. It looks like the Warp9 part is arched upward in this area, so maybe they had to do this to keep the return spring in tension...but it makes it a PITA to get the spring installed. I ended up having to turn my spring around such that the end of the hook faces out, otherwise the spring hits the pedal which puts the spring in both bending and tension. That combination of loading will cause the hook to break if left in that position. Reference the picture above to see what I am talking about...for comparison, here is the stock brake lever.

Image

Brake Cylinder Clevis:
The pedal has a metal bushing in the hole for the clevis pin...this should minimize the wear on the pedal. The clevis itself is aluminum and doesn't have a bushing, but it has twice the surface area compared to the pedal so wear should not be a problem. EDIT: I just noticed that the clevis has a recess for the head of the pin on the side with the Warp9 logo...no wonder I had such a hard time installing the codder pin with it mounted backwards. I'll have to fix that in the morning.

Image

The only issue I ran into with the clevis is that the threads bottomed out before I got the pedal positioned correctly.

Image

This probably won't be a problem for DRs with stock footpegs, but I had previously cut the threads on my master cylinder to account for the lower pegs...apparently I didn't cut enough off. I only needed one or two more turns, so instead of cutting the threads again, I ran a tap through the clevis to allow the threads to go down a little farther.

Image

Adjustable Length:
I thought the design was going to give me +/- 10mm from the stock pedal length, but the pedal has to be installed in the farthest position just to match the stock pedal in length. So, in reality, it gives you the stock position and -10mm or -20mm. Here's a picture comparing the two...note that the Warp9 pedal is in the longest position possible in this picture.

Image

Cable Snake:
The pedal comes with a nice plastic lined cable, two crimps and a bracket that looks like it will bolt to the front lower engine mount. You will need a swaging tool if you want to use those crimps.

Image

Warp 9 added holes to both the pedal and the adjustable tip...the obvious problem is that with the cable running through both parts, you can no longer move the pedal position once you have the cable snake installed. So, make sure you get the pedal positioned the way you want it before you grab your swaging tool.

Image

_________________
'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 1:20 pm 
Offline
Member Servant
Member Servant
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 9459
Location: Mackinaw City, MI, USA
Nice review/install RamMan4x4! :clapping:

_________________
- mxrob -


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 6:16 pm 
Offline
Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 1:46 am
Posts: 21
Location: USA,Utah,Riverton
Just installed mine today, and I agree completely with RanMan4x4 with the few small issues that should be looked into.

The main spring:
The spring rubs the lever after installed (installed backwards or forwards). Will it wear away the lever or spring over time? (likely the lever since its aluminum vs spring steal).
I see a few possible options.
1. trim away some of the top of the lever so it doesn't rub. (only a few mm needed)
2. Find a spring with a longer hook. Reforming the existing spring didn't seem like great, as there wouldn't be enough hook left.
3. Move the hole. Moving the hole looked like it probably wouldn't put enough tension on the spring.

I did #1, as I felt it was going to happen anyway.


The brake clevis:
It likely should be treaded all the way, as I bottomed out on it as well. I took the same path and tapped it the remaining bit.


Overall, except for these minor issues, a very nice product and cool upgrade.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 10:04 pm 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:01 pm
Posts: 2306
Location: Apex, NC
manlaan wrote:
The spring rubs the lever after installed (installed backwards or forwards). Will it wear away the lever or spring over time? (likely the lever since its aluminum vs spring steal).

Thanks for sharing. I wasn't sure if the spring would hit the lever on stock height pegs or not.

If the springs are allowed to hit the brake lever, the failure mode will be from fatigue not wear. The hooks on the end of tension springs are great at handling tension, but they don't like the combination of tension and bending. The bending load creates a high stress point at the bend of the hook and it will eventually fail. It's good that you notched the lever so the spring doesn't hit.

_________________
'08 Suzuki DR 650SE
'99 Suzuki DR 350SE
'07 Buell Ulysses XB12X
'65 Honda CB160
'06 Honda CRF50F


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 12:14 am 
Offline
Single Tracker
Single Tracker
User avatar

Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:25 am
Posts: 163
Location: Victoria, Australia
Thanks for the reviews and feedback guys. I've been eyeing this item of for a while now and it just recently became available locally but for $180 AUD it just seemed a little too much for what would essentially be adding bling to my DR (or farkling simply for the sake of the sparkle since it's not adding any additional function to my bike :s_wink ). If it had been around $120ish or so I would have strongly considered grabbing one however, having now seen this review I am definitely not ever going to consider one as for $180 I would expect it to bolt straight on with no fuss which doesn't seem the case at all :nea:


I don't mind at all working on the DR but in the 4 months or so that I've owned her I've had to adjust a number of new parts to make them fit better / properly (one being the OEM bash plate) and for that kind of money I believe the Warp 9 brake lever should fit like a glove and work properly right out of the packaging.

- Craig


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 12:00 am 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 02, 2014 11:12 am
Posts: 1452
Location: San Francisco
Location:
I broke mine on the first crash! But the good news is that it seems to have just broken the foot pad. The pad is shaped like a triangle, designed to "spin" out of the weigh so long as your bike lands on the right side moving forward. Unfortunately, I lost the back end while leaned over on pavement, so the forces were pushing up on the bottom of the pad, breaking one tip of the triangle off right where the little spikes tap in. Luckily, no one was hurt and the bike is also fine - and enough of the pad remains that I'm still using it as is. I suppose I will see if procycle sell some he pads seperately

As others have mentioned, the stock springs require that you modify the brake lever. I cut a few minor notches in it with a small file.

One other problem I have with the pedal is that with stock height pegs, the lever can contact the case, as I found out in my get off. I will be machining a bit more of the lever off to help prevent this.

If anyone is interest I can take pictures to illustrate my points, but for now I just wanted to get my thoughts down before I forget.


So far I'm not as thoroughly impressed with this lever as I had hoped to be - perhaps warp nine will refine their design - it's really a shame to have to machine the pretty ano finish off my pricey kit to make it function properly, and to prevent damage to a delicate part of my bike!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:41 am 
Offline
Single Tracker
Single Tracker
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:14 pm
Posts: 260
Location: Minnesota
Tombo wrote:

If anyone is interest I can take pictures to illustrate my points, but for now I just wanted to get my thoughts down before I forget.


how close is close? do you have case savers on?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:25 am 
Offline
Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 02, 2014 11:12 am
Posts: 1452
Location: San Francisco
Location:
3shot wrote:
Tombo wrote:

If anyone is interest I can take pictures to illustrate my points, but for now I just wanted to get my thoughts down before I forget.


how close is close? do you have case savers on?


Close Enough to nick my case, and the case armor won't protect against it. I'll use ram man picture:

Image

His pegs are lowered, but to the lower left of the case armor, there is a 90 degree rounded for square edge with a bolt right at the corner? The top part of the lever's arm nicked that part of my case in my crash.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:41 pm 
Offline
SuperMoto Dude
SuperMoto Dude

Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:10 am
Posts: 413
Location: Port Clinton, OH
Thanks for this thread!

I looked at the Warp 9 for a bit when it was still in pre-order. I thought was just another piece of expensive bling. That is until the day I realized the combination of the stock lever, low mount pegs and center stand did not work. The lever bottomed before any braking action.

So with this unexpected situation, I called ProCycle. And sure enough, some of the guys there had found out the same thing. It was mentioned that the guys in the shop took to the bench grinder re-shaping their stock lever to look like - you guessed it! - the Warp 9. I was also told that the curve of the Warp 9 was done to alleviate just my situation.

I quickly whipped out my credit card and pre-ordered me a Warp 9 lever. Then headed to the garage and the bench grinder, I was not giving up my center stand.

Something happened and my pre-order didn't go through, so I would have re-order my pre-order (does that make sense?). By this point I was happily riding around with my re-shaped stock lever and didn't bother.

However - after reading through this fine product review, I may just take a second look at the Warp 9.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:08 pm 
Offline
Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 11:36 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Asheville, NC
I admit I was an early sucker for the Warp 9 rear pedal. When I contacted ProCycle about the spring fitment their reply was simply "get a new spring." When I contacted Warp 9 their response was quick and asked me to send back my pedal for one with a third hole drilled. However when I got their pedal back it was just like the wack one I sent in and now they won't respond to my emails. I'm not impressed with both Warp 9 or ProCycle, especially so for such an expensive brake pedal.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  



Forum hosting by ProphpBB | Software by phpBB | Report Abuse | Privacy