www.DRRiders.com

Yes when i fitted my WARP9 rims on my rear
I had to take about 5mm off the back of the rear brake calibre
so it would"nt rub against the spokes of the rim ,
apparently this is common practice with WARP9 rims.
but not shaw if you have to do this with any other brand off motard rear wheel
The tires I am runninig are 150-70-17 DUNLOP SPORTMAX 200s with no clearance issues.
& the front tires are 120-70-17 DUNLOP SPORTMAX 200s with no clearance issues,
but only have about 5mm clearance between tire and fork boot holders.

I think I found out what the issue was. With lotsa of help from ADV offcourse.

Caliper Piston and pin not self adjusting.
I might have to replace brake pads, and get the piston rebuild kit. Also the rotor looks warped, so I might as well replace that.

Did you lube the pins that the caliper slides on?

WOW ----- with the right hand spacer in there.....that rotor has to be WAY warped in order for it to contact the caliper bracket.

It appears as though your brake pads/caliper have been pushed apart from the rotor wobbling in its mount also.......

Ya know what I'm thinking also? Maybe the true root to the problem is bad wheel bearings ---- letting your rear tire wobble, which in turn is causing movement at your rotor, (which may warp the rotor) which is pushing your brake pads apart.

If you Master Cylinder Piston needed a rebuild.......the rear brake would drag, and not release after applying the brake. I'm not seeing that as the issue here.

Yep --- check those wheel bearings. LOL, unless you rode around with your rear axle not torqued down and flapping around.


Also --- shouldn't make a difference.....but your right side chain adjuster is suppose to be flipped around ---- there's a 'bearing side' lip on the adjuster that mounts towards your swingarm.

Yeah, most of that caliper bracket damage was probably from before I replaced the bearings and yes, the rotor is warped. The wheel was wobbling from bad bearings and must have caused the rotor warp.

I will be replacing rotor and rebuild the caliper with a rebuild kit. But it kind of sucks since I bought the spacer set for $50ish from the dealership and now I know they were not the problem..

Thanks for the detailed answer though. BTW, I already change the chain adjuster this evening when someone else pointed that out on ADV.

Mine rubs on the front with a 120 ... just a little occasionally. Removed a little material from the plastic. Running Road 2's on it ... 150 on the rear. My cush rubber got a little old and caused the chain to stretch and score the tire a little. I wouldn't go up to 160 IMHO.

I also had to remove a little material off one of the white front fork plastic clamps. I removed the other one completely since I don't have a speedometer cable anymore. Running Michelin Pilot Road 3s, 120 in the front, 150 in the back.

What rims are you running
I am running WARP9 rims with 120-70-17 front tire,
i still have the white plastic fork covers ,
but only have 5mm one side & 3mm the other side clearance

Warp 9 rims with 120/70/ZR17 Michelin Pilot Road 3