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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:33 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 9350
Location: Mackinaw City, MI, USA
So here we will place all tuning tips and tricks known to man on the BST. There is a ton of info already present here and abroad on the BST so let us know what we should merge or move here so the info can be found in one location and without having to search through multiple pages to find it.

Thanks Auscanvet for the suggestion! :2_thumbsup:

So I will start out with a few of the best known information sources and we can add data from there.

ADV's epic "BST-40 Bible"

The DR650 Wikia's Intake page

Auscanvet's BST Magic thread

Let me know what other existing posts you'd like to see linked here and I can merge it into the this post to keep the length of the total thread shorter... but feel free to make new posts on your own tuning info.

What is important here is to know your location (big differences in tuning just based on available fuels alone) your machine's modifications and what elevation your are at for the suggested settings.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:53 am 
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Love this! A one stop sticky for tuning!!! Anyway this can be part of an update for the mighty app so many people (myself included) have downloaded?


:drinks: :good: :Roost: :clapping: :BevButt:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:57 am 
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:2_thumbsup: I have thought about tinkering with my BST after I've had time to read the all the available material. If there is any consensus on the positive vs. negative, it would an important consideration for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 11:18 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:59 pm
Posts: 567
Location: brisbane, australia
Thanks MXROB, your truly a legend!! The BST Magic thread works great for Australian bikes. Dozen's of riders are now on these settings and seem happy with the results. As MXROB and others say, if your not getting 50mpg or over your just too rich. The DR is run mainly on the needle circuit, 1/8th to about 1/2 throttle. You will spent 80% of your time there so , in my opinion the needle needs to be in the right place. The jetting kit instructions, as they admit err on the rich side. They may work well under 32f (0c) but don't be scared to try lower needle positions. In Australia many are running over two needle positions leaner with a tapered stock needle and slightly opened air box. Thanx again Rob!!

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"Sold" 2011 DR650 GSXR #24, drilled slide, cut spring, modified stock needle, with cut air box, air assist forks, lowered pegs, stock tank,15-41. Still love working on them!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 1162
Location: Central Marylandistan, Maryland
Auscanvet wrote:
Thanks MXROB, your truly a legend!! The BST Magic thread works great for Australian bikes. Dozen's of riders are now on these settings and seem happy with the results. As MXROB and others say, if your not getting 50mpg or over your just too rich. The DR is run mainly on the needle circuit, 1/8th to about 1/2 throttle. You will spent 80% of your time there so , in my opinion the needle needs to be in the right place. The jetting kit instructions, as they admit err on the rich side. They may work well under 32f (0c) but don't be scared to try lower needle positions. In Australia many are running over two needle positions leaner with a tapered stock needle and slightly opened air box. Thanx again Rob!!


I "may" be too rich. The exhaust end of my DG is getting blacker than normal; but I ride with a heavy throttle hand and it's very hard for me to determine my actual mileage. Mid 40's I would think. Bike runs very well though and pulls hard throughout the entire power band. Could it pull even harder? I just do not know... am I at the apex of what the motor is giving me for power? I have no idea... I guess that only a Dyno could determine that?

Jetting is such a subjective issue; with so many variables involved... one method/setting/size can never be applicable to all.

_________________
Contrary to misguided popular belief; Aftermarket Exhaust and Headlight Modulators DO SAVE LIVES. I'm living proof...

21 years retired Army - Seen EVERYTHING - Done ALMOST Everything... Ooorah!


2012 DR650SE
2015 Honda F6B


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:59 pm
Posts: 567
Location: brisbane, australia
willtill wrote:
Auscanvet wrote:
Thanks MXROB, your truly a legend!! The BST Magic thread works great for Australian bikes. Dozen's of riders are now on these settings and seem happy with the results. As MXROB and others say, if your not getting 50mpg or over your just too rich. The DR is run mainly on the needle circuit, 1/8th to about 1/2 throttle. You will spent 80% of your time there so , in my opinion the needle needs to be in the right place. The jetting kit instructions, as they admit err on the rich side. They may work well under 32f (0c) but don't be scared to try lower needle positions. In Australia many are running over two needle positions leaner with a tapered stock needle and slightly opened air box. Thanx again Rob!!


I "may" be too rich. The exhaust end of my DG is getting blacker than normal; but I ride with a heavy throttle hand and it's very hard for me to determine my actual mileage. Mid 40's I would think. Bike runs very well though and pulls hard throughout the entire power band. Could it pull even harder? I just do not know... am I at the apex of what the motor is giving me for power? I have no idea... I guess that only a Dyno could determine that?

Jetting is such a subjective issue; with so many variables involved... one method/setting/size can never be applicable to all.


Sorry but I disagree with you. Very slight changes in jetting between the same model should be all that is needed if they are running the same carb and exhaust. In my experience, after 45 odd years of two and now four strokes. The DR is pretty mild and will tolerate pretty wild variations but will still run best and get the best mileage when jetted right. It only takes two minutes to have the needle in your hand, (with the stock tank) so there is no excuse. Try different jetting and learn what too lean and too rich feels like! The BST Magic thread was developed for guys to get almost perfect jetting for virtually no cost. $5-$10 for a mainjet, that's it!

_________________
"Sold" 2011 DR650 GSXR #24, drilled slide, cut spring, modified stock needle, with cut air box, air assist forks, lowered pegs, stock tank,15-41. Still love working on them!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:10 am
Posts: 1162
Location: Central Marylandistan, Maryland
Auscanvet wrote:
willtill wrote:
Auscanvet wrote:
Thanks MXROB, your truly a legend!! The BST Magic thread works great for Australian bikes. Dozen's of riders are now on these settings and seem happy with the results. As MXROB and others say, if your not getting 50mpg or over your just too rich. The DR is run mainly on the needle circuit, 1/8th to about 1/2 throttle. You will spent 80% of your time there so , in my opinion the needle needs to be in the right place. The jetting kit instructions, as they admit err on the rich side. They may work well under 32f (0c) but don't be scared to try lower needle positions. In Australia many are running over two needle positions leaner with a tapered stock needle and slightly opened air box. Thanx again Rob!!


I "may" be too rich. The exhaust end of my DG is getting blacker than normal; but I ride with a heavy throttle hand and it's very hard for me to determine my actual mileage. Mid 40's I would think. Bike runs very well though and pulls hard throughout the entire power band. Could it pull even harder? I just do not know... am I at the apex of what the motor is giving me for power? I have no idea... I guess that only a Dyno could determine that?

Jetting is such a subjective issue; with so many variables involved... one method/setting/size can never be applicable to all.


Sorry but I disagree with you. Very slight changes in jetting between the same model should be all that is needed if they are running the same carb and exhaust. In my experience, after 45 odd years of two and now four strokes. The DR is pretty mild and will tolerate pretty wild variations but will still run best and get the best mileage when jetted right. It only takes two minutes to have the needle in your hand, (with the stock tank) so there is no excuse. Try different jetting and learn what too lean and too rich feels like! The BST Magic thread was developed for guys to get almost perfect jetting for virtually no cost. $5-$10 for a mainjet, that's it!



OK. So tell me what the magical settings are then.

_________________
Contrary to misguided popular belief; Aftermarket Exhaust and Headlight Modulators DO SAVE LIVES. I'm living proof...

21 years retired Army - Seen EVERYTHING - Done ALMOST Everything... Ooorah!


2012 DR650SE
2015 Honda F6B


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:59 pm
Posts: 567
Location: brisbane, australia
Willtill read the thread.

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"Sold" 2011 DR650 GSXR #24, drilled slide, cut spring, modified stock needle, with cut air box, air assist forks, lowered pegs, stock tank,15-41. Still love working on them!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 11:58 am 
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First I apologize for being a shameless name dropper, but I am so stoked by what transpired yesterday I have to share it.

After wading through so much discussion about tuning the BST40 here and on other websites, I finally decided it wouldn't hurt to take the bold step of shimming the needle and getting the extended fuel mixture screw. I found that Kientech Engineering has them for just $15. Jesse's name and phone number appear prominently on the banner at the top of the page, and just below that I could hardly believe the address I saw in fine print; a place nearby!

The time is a little after 8 am Monday morning and according to their website they are open for business, so I call the number and a woman answers confirming I have reached Kientech Engineering. When I ask her if Jesse is available to speak with me about a DR650, she answers in the affirmative and puts him on. Our conversation went on for about 20 minutes with him generously answering my questions and giving me a general idea of the extent of his work. Of course he's got the extended fuel screws, and he explains he has them made right in Grants Pass by a firm having some kind of impressive CNC lathe, and he's got the SS carb screws, and my DR carb is lying on the workbench in the garage just waiting, so I get things together and drive over to Kientech Engineering.

There is no sign announcing the business, just the last name and address confirming this is the place. Passing a large shop building next to the driveway, I pull up and stop by the house. The door to the shop building slides open behind me, and when I identify myself as having called that morning to the man in the doorway, Jesse invites me inside. The first thing I see, besides all the machinery for welding, bending, grinding, you name it, is a DR650 frame elevated with an engine having various sections cut away. This is his mock-up for fitting his aftermarket parts. He showed me his oversized header and mid-pipe for the DR which he makes to fit the lighter and less restricted cans such as the GSXR. I mentioned that I like the quiet stock exhaust and he showed me one, don't recall the model, which he said was only slightly louder than the stock exhaust and of course weighs much less. Jesse also says his oversized header and mid-pipe run much cooler than stock, saying a heat sensor will show the stock setup can get as hot as 600 degrees F, but his are so effective at pulling heat away that they only get to half that temperature; cooler running temperatures contribute to engine longevity.

Though I am only after a few screws on this day, I certainly enjoyed the short time I had with Jesse at his workshop where he produces all his acclaimed pieces for the DR and other bikes. There is no question where I will be going for my future DR upgrades.

Getting back home, the needle shimming went smoothly, but I found the washers I selected for shims were 1 mm thick! I put one in. Jessie recommended I start with the new fuel mixture screw at 3/4 turn out from bottom. The old screw was out 2 1/4 turns! The bike started but wasn't quite right, more popping than before. After warming up things seemed best with the mixture screw out about 1 to 1 1/4 turns, both idling and revving in neutral. Hopped on, took it down the road a mile and rolled the throttle on and off coming back. It runs excellent and no decel popping at all. :woohoo:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 12:06 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:55 am
Posts: 655
Location: Toledo, Ohio
WoodRat wrote:
First I apologize for being a shameless name dropper, but I am so stoked by what transpired yesterday I have to share it.

After wading through so much discussion about tuning the BST40 here and on other websites, I finally decided it wouldn't hurt to take the bold step of shimming the needle and getting the extended fuel mixture screw. I found that Kientech Engineering has them for just $15. Jesse's name and phone number appear prominently on the banner at the top of the page, and just below that I could hardly believe the address I saw in fine print; a place nearby!

The time is a little after 8 am Monday morning and according to their website they are open for business, so I call the number and a woman answers confirming I have reached Kientech Engineering. When I ask her if Jesse is available to speak with me about a DR650, she answers in the affirmative and puts him on. Our conversation went on for about 20 minutes with him generously answering my questions and giving me a general idea of the extent of his work. Of course he's got the extended fuel screws, and he explains he has them made right in Grants Pass by a firm having some kind of impressive CNC lathe, and he's got the SS carb screws, and my DR carb is lying on the workbench in the garage just waiting, so I get things together and drive over to Kientech Engineering.

There is no sign announcing the business, just the last name and address confirming this is the place. Passing a large shop building next to the driveway, I pull up and stop by the house. The door to the shop building slides open behind me, and when I identify myself as having called that morning to the man in the doorway, Jesse invites me inside. The first thing I see, besides all the machinery for welding, bending, grinding, you name it, is a DR650 frame elevated with an engine having various sections cut away. This is his mock-up for fitting his aftermarket parts. He showed me his oversized header and mid-pipe for the DR which he makes to fit the lighter and less restricted cans such as the GSXR. I mentioned that I like the quiet stock exhaust and he showed me one, don't recall the model, which he said was only slightly louder than the stock exhaust and of course weighs much less. Jesse also says his oversized header and mid-pipe run much cooler than stock, saying a heat sensor will show the stock setup can get as hot as 600 degrees F, but his are so effective at pulling heat away that they only get to half that temperature; cooler running temperatures contribute to engine longevity.

Though I am only after a few screws on this day, I certainly enjoyed the short time I had with Jesse at his workshop where he produces all his acclaimed pieces for the DR and other bikes. There is no question where I will be going for my future DR upgrades.

Getting back home, the needle shimming went smoothly, but I found the washers I selected for shims were 1 mm thick! I put one in. Jessie recommended I start with the new fuel mixture screw at 3/4 turn out from bottom. The old screw was out 2 1/4 turns! The bike started but wasn't quite right, more popping than before. After warming up things seemed best with the mixture screw out about 1 to 1 1/4 turns, both idling and revving in neutral. Hopped on, took it down the road a mile and rolled the throttle on and off coming back. It runs excellent and no decel popping at all. :woohoo:

Lucky dog to live so close to such great people. You must of been the guy that was supposed to show up while I was talking to Janet and Jesse about the high flow header and mid pipe.


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