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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:02 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:09 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Michigan
Ok I have been convinced to mod the stock carb until I can get a midpipe,thanks for everyones help!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 1:48 am 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2016 9:55 am
Posts: 4
Location: Vancouver BC
My DR650 was really bad a low throttle settings, just as many others have reported. Drilled a second hole in the slide, shortened the slide spring, ground the last 45mm of the needle, D shaped the plastic needle spacer, K&N and no snorkel. Still would not run well. Pulled the carb apart and replaced all the "O" rings, the "O" ring at the bottom of the slide guide was not too good, all the others looked ok. Raised the needle with a 0.030" shim. Ran much better and even better after adjusting the fuel needle. Still a very small stumble at partial throttle settings, but the bike is much much better now.

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Trail Rider
Trail Rider

Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 12:46 pm
Posts: 82
Location: Paxico, KS
What size is the O-ring at the slide? The one in my carb is pretty badly flattened.

_________________
2000 DR650
Pat Walsh skid plate, Carmichael bars, Seat Concepts seat, bar risers, lowered footpegs


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 10:14 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 9:49 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Mass
I got the procycle jet kit a few days ago and tore down my carb to clean/inspect and install. My bike has the two brothers muffler(love that bark) and unplugged fuel mix screw from PO. I found the mix screw to be about 3 3/4 turns out and all else was stock in the carb and airbox aside from twin air I installed a while ago. There was nothing really to complain about with how the engine was running except a crack at the choke fitting which was probably the cause of hard starts. I made sure to get the warp 9 piece in my order.

Step drill and leatherman saw took care of the airbox top.
Attachment:
airbox cutout.jpg
airbox cutout.jpg [ 76.35 KiB | Viewed 320 times ]


I followed the procycle directions and drilled the slide, set needle to 4th clip, 150 mikuni main and idle screw 2 turns out. A little choke got it fired up and I had to play with the idle stop because I had taken it out for cleaning but after that I took off for my favorite loop around a reservoir. Right away I could feel the difference in how much more air it was pulling in and the decel popping was much less than before. The roads I was on were too hilly and slow to do a good 4th gear WOT test but I tried anyway and it was a blast. It pulls better at all rpms and very smooth but I felt something like hitting the pipe on a 2 stroke that makes me think maybe the needle is too lean around 3/4 throttle and it surges? :s_dunno This is my first 4 stroke bike so I don't know what to expect. I wonder if the carb vent is too close to the open airbox now.

I ran out of road before trying 5th so there is more tuning to be done but overall I am happy with the improvements. I fiddled with the idle screw and it seems to like it staying at 2 turns out, about 1400rpm according to my vapor. Running temp also dropped from 280F before down to 255F...anyone seen that?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:55 pm 
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Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider

Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:59 pm
Posts: 570
Location: brisbane, australia
D.O wrote:
I got the procycle jet kit a few days ago and tore down my carb to clean/inspect and install. My bike has the two brothers muffler(love that bark) and unplugged fuel mix screw from PO. I found the mix screw to be about 3 3/4 turns out and all else was stock in the carb and airbox aside from twin air I installed a while ago. There was nothing really to complain about with how the engine was running except a crack at the choke fitting which was probably the cause of hard starts. I made sure to get the warp 9 piece in my order.

Step drill and leatherman saw took care of the airbox top.
Attachment:
airbox cutout.jpg


I followed the procycle directions and drilled the slide, set needle to 4th clip, 150 mikuni main and idle screw 2 turns out. A little choke got it fired up and I had to play with the idle stop because I had taken it out for cleaning but after that I took off for my favorite loop around a reservoir. Right away I could feel the difference in how much more air it was pulling in and the decel popping was much less than before. The roads I was on were too hilly and slow to do a good 4th gear WOT test but I tried anyway and it was a blast. It pulls better at all rpms and very smooth but I felt something like hitting the pipe on a 2 stroke that makes me think maybe the needle is too lean around 3/4 throttle and it surges? :s_dunno This is my first 4 stroke bike so I don't know what to expect. I wonder if the carb vent is too close to the open airbox now.

I ran out of road before trying 5th so there is more tuning to be done but overall I am happy with the improvements. I fiddled with the idle screw and it seems to like it staying at 2 turns out, about 1400rpm according to my vapor. Running temp also dropped from 280F before down to 255F...anyone seen that?


Fairly warm over there?? Maybe try the third clip?

_________________
"Sold" 2011 DR650 GSXR #24, drilled slide, cut spring, modified stock needle, with cut air box, air assist forks, lowered pegs, stock tank,15-41. Still love working on them!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 7:52 am 
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Single Tracker
Single Tracker

Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 10:55 pm
Posts: 294
Location: MASS
D.O wrote:
I got the procycle jet kit a few days ago and tore down my carb to clean/inspect and install. My bike has the two brothers muffler(love that bark) and unplugged fuel mix screw from PO. I found the mix screw to be about 3 3/4 turns out and all else was stock in the carb and airbox aside from twin air I installed a while ago. There was nothing really to complain about with how the engine was running except a crack at the choke fitting which was probably the cause of hard starts. I made sure to get the warp 9 piece in my order.

Step drill and leatherman saw took care of the airbox top.
Attachment:
airbox cutout.jpg


I followed the procycle directions and drilled the slide, set needle to 4th clip, 150 mikuni main and idle screw 2 turns out. A little choke got it fired up and I had to play with the idle stop because I had taken it out for cleaning but after that I took off for my favorite loop around a reservoir. Right away I could feel the difference in how much more air it was pulling in and the decel popping was much less than before. The roads I was on were too hilly and slow to do a good 4th gear WOT test but I tried anyway and it was a blast. It pulls better at all rpms and very smooth but I felt something like hitting the pipe on a 2 stroke that makes me think maybe the needle is too lean around 3/4 throttle and it surges? :s_dunno This is my first 4 stroke bike so I don't know what to expect. I wonder if the carb vent is too close to the open airbox now.

I ran out of road before trying 5th so there is more tuning to be done but overall I am happy with the improvements. I fiddled with the idle screw and it seems to like it staying at 2 turns out, about 1400rpm according to my vapor. Running temp also dropped from 280F before down to 255F...anyone seen that?

Hey D.O, where in MA are you? I'm in Gloucester. Anyway, my bike is set up like yours except I have the LeoVince X-3 pipe. I also have the homemade tapered adjustable 'BST Magic' needle rather than the PC kit one. When jetting mine I found that I had to go to a 152.5 main as the 150 was just a tad too lean and my needle is in clip 3 with a .03 shim rather than using the 4th clip. I've found that the .04 difference in clip positions can at times be too course and that sometimes a .02 shim (1/2 clip position) can be just right. I try to run mine as lean as possible yet pull strong and smooth. (still getting 52-54 mpg).
So try a 152.5 main and using a .02 shim washer on the needle with the 3rd or fourth clip and yeah, keep the breather away from the great sucking vortex airbox inlet!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:13 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 9:49 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Mass
I'm in Worcester now but I've lived in Salem and Plum Island for the last 6 years. I miss the north shore and roads like 1A and 127. I still have friends over there, one in Rockport, maybe I'll visit sometime.

When you talk about a 0.03 shim I assume that's inches right? And is that in addition to the D-spacer?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:57 am 
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Single Tracker
Single Tracker

Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2015 10:55 pm
Posts: 294
Location: MASS
D.O wrote:
I'm in Worcester now but I've lived in Salem and Plum Island for the last 6 years. I miss the north shore and roads like 1A and 127. I still have friends over there, one in Rockport, maybe I'll visit sometime.

When you talk about a 0.03 shim I assume that's inches right? And is that in addition to the D-spacer?

Yes, inches and in addition to the white spacer. I've been in my carb changing mains and needle positions about 7-8 times all in relation to opening up my airbox topic18363.html and adding my exhaust topic18618.html. It's subtle but I can tell the difference in 1/2 clip positions and like I said, sometimes it's 'just right'.

I used to live in Rockport too right on 127. If you're out this way on your DR, shoot me an email or PM and maybe we can get in a ride.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 12:54 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 9:49 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Mass
I haven't bothered changing anything in my setup after doing the procycle kit since it performs well all around. The other day I filled the tank (stock) after riding 133 miles without hitting reserve. It took 2.3 gallons so that works out to be 57.8mpg! That trip was mostly backroads under 50mph and some stop and go in towns with my big touratech cases hanging off the sides. :2_thumbsup:

/edit just remembered that I did move the carb vent to a better baffled spot away from the airbox hole, that helped.


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 Post subject: Long shot here
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 6:27 am 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 4:48 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Berwick Australia
Okay, hoping for a quick response since the bikes apart and I'm an impatient &^%.. Aussie DR, remove snorkel, drill slide, grind taper on needle, cut needle collar (D mod) cut diaphragm spring (maybe) A/F screw 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 add dead bone stock including exhaust.. Am I missing anything?


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