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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 11:11 pm 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:44 am
Posts: 109
Location: South Carolina
Well, it was time. I'm one of those insecure types that can't let a known problem fester, even if it is a rare occurrence. The NSU screws would have to be looked at. Just back from the Georgia BMW rally so an oil change was due anyway. Here's how it went:

First step is to buy one of these. Yeah, I know some people say the old one can be reused. I can assure you that is not always the case.

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Next, drain the oil, remove the filter.

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Then, remove the brake lever. I have Pro-Cycle's lowered footpegs so it can remain in place. With stock pegs you will need to remove the right one.

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Now remove both oil fittings and the clutch lever. Detach the clutch cable at the handlebar end first.

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Using an 8mm socket, remove all the case cover bolts. Important tip: there are FIVE different type bolts here! Keep them straight.

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Next, use a plastic or wood hammer to GENTLY tap the case until it breaks loose. This thing is either aluminum or magnesium so don't hit, just tap.

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Now look under the clutch. See that hole? Stuff a clean rag in it to keep junk out of your transmission. Then remove the four bolts holding the clutch plates on.

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Different view of the clutch and rag. After removing the plates, bend the locking tab out and remove the center nut holding on the clutch basket. I used an impact wrench and either a 1" or 1 & 1/16" socket, I forget which. I just held the clutch hub with my fingers and a rag.

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Next, using an impact driver, remove the oil deflector.

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Prepare your M5 - 8 x 20mm bolts. I used stainless because I already had a couple in the garage, but anything will do. Not hardened though, because drilling the holes is tough enough in mild steel.

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A little Locktite medium strength:

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And a bit of clumsily-tied safety wire:

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My project required a new gasket. Being a pessimist I had ordered a new one from Pro-Cycle a while back. Carefully clean up both surfaces using a gasket scraper and/or single edged razor blades. Other than that, reinstall parts in the reverse order and Bob's yer Uncle, it's done!

Oh, yeah. The original NSU screws? They were still snug at the current 1900 miles. Would they have worked loose? Beats me.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 6:07 pm 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:44 am
Posts: 109
Location: South Carolina
Thanks for moving this to the proper section. I got my "Mods" confused with my "Tips."

On the torque values for the NSU screws, I couldn't find any. I suspect there is none because it is a plastic part and will deform slightly under bolt or screw pressure. Just snug is enough. And if you replace the screws with bolts don't get carried away when tightening them. You really, really don't want to damage the threaded hole in the engine case!


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:26 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Melbourne, Oarstrarlya
Wish I'd seen this before I did mine.

A tip I'd add is to be careful putting the clutch assembly back on. Make sure it mates with the plastic gear behind it properly. When I did mine, I unthinkingly pushed mine on, thought it was home, started tightening, and rooted the plastic gear..


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:05 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Location: Flagstaff AZ
This ain't good:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost ... ount=49541
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost ... ount=49542

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:58 pm 
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Thanks for taking the time to take the photos and do the write up.
I'm currently up to the removal of the oil deflector and need to get an impact driver as my standard screw driver feels like it will wreck the head if I force it anymore.
I didn't seem to be strong enough to hold the Clutch sleeve hub to loosen the Clutch sleeve hub nut (27mm socket). So I rigged up the following.
You are looking at a fixed gear bicycle tool as a way of holding the Clutch sleeve hub while I loosen the Clutch sleeve hub nut. The cheap socket arm that you see poked into the Primary Cam drive chain shaft did bend during the loosening process. I hope to bend it straight when I tighten it :crazy:
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:36 am 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:37 am
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Location: Piedmont, NC
Attaching a PDF format of the same tutorial.. I was taking a neat little printout and figured I would save a copy as a PDF. can be circulated around on the interwebs..

Thanks Greenlizard.. :biggrin:
Attachment:
File comment: PDF Format of the same instructions.
NSUCheckup-GreenLizard.pdf [433.72 KiB]
Downloaded 882 times

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2007 DR650 SuperMoto with almost all the goodies..(it never ends ya know!)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:21 pm 
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Adventure Rider
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 8:24 am
Posts: 1165
Location: Maine, USA
When I got around to doing it I found out that I needed a 27mm socket to get the clutch off. Biggest I had was a 26mm and I couldn't find a 27mm around town anywhere. I bought a 1 1/16" and that worked fine.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:29 pm 
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Trail Rider
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2013 10:35 am
Posts: 88
Location: Greensboro, NC
2007 DR650 just under 8,000 miles...



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 10:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 am
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Location: Kentwood, MI, USA
Man, you are strong... That looked so effortless. :sarcastic: Suzuki should have had Mikuni install the screws in the NSU for them. :rofl:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:02 pm 
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SuperMoto Dude
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 417
Location: upstate SC
Not sure why the OP chose to remove the oil deflector. I did not find this necesary.
A few steps down I see someone made a clutch holding tool from a spanner. I've heard of people braking the clutch housing with similar tools.
I found shifting into 5th and sticking my foot behind the front tire was suficient. only 35ft/lb on that nut. You could also hold the front brake if necesary. Rear brake is disabled to gain access.
I was lucky enough to reuse my gasket. Hasn't leaked a drop since.


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