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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 7:25 pm 
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SuperMoto Dude
SuperMoto Dude

Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:03 pm
Posts: 394
Location: Western, NC
busabird57 wrote:
I plan on doing my NSU unit soon. Some of you have used both the blue locktite and safety wire for added insurance….but how about just using blue locktite alone? If the screws worked their way out wouldn't safety wire plus the two bolts cause more damage? Just asking. :sad:

I just did mine a few days ago and used loctite 243 which is surface insensitive and has a higher heat rating than the regular 242 loctite. I had planned on not taking the clutch off and getting the top screw off with a sheetrock phillips tip and pliers, but mine was too tight, so I did remove the clutch (which, btw, is pretty easy) and had total access to the top screw and hole. So, since I could, I did clean out the threads with alcohol on a q-tip. I think loctited screws are gonna be fine without wiring them. However, I don't think the screws could back out when wired together unless the wire somehow broke.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 7:35 pm 
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Trail Rider
Trail Rider

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:28 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Michigan, USA
Location:
I just did my NSU screws...... 2013 model.... and was pleased to find it came equipped with allen head screws, so it was a simple matter of removing the screws with a ball end allen wrench, they came out quite easily, and a little carb clean in the hole, clean threads, and back in they went with blue locktite. A shorter head allen wrench was required for final tightening, to clear the shield, being as the ball head is insufficient for that. Aside from removing the cover, it was a 10 minute job, Remember to wait a day before adding oil. I always tape over the ignition with a note that says "NO OIL"..... to be sure I dont forget.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:21 pm 
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Single Tracker
Single Tracker

Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:31 am
Posts: 184
Location: N.C. - Raleigh and east
MadMax wrote:
I've referred to this thread so many times I decided to add my own pics.
This is how I dealt with the DR NSU issue.
Pulled the clutch cover. Removed clutch disk/basket. Removed Oil deflector. Removed stock NSU screws. Lower one was hand tight the upper was snug. Replaced with 5mm Cap head screw, drilled for safety wire. Installed with permatex blue.

Attachment:
IMG_0005.JPG


Attachment:
IMG_0006.JPG

I know this is an old thread, but why are you using Permatex if you're safety wiring them?


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 Post subject: NSU Checkup - Parts List
PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 5:40 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Montreal area, Quebecistan, Canuckistan
Hi Guys & Gals,
I'll be checking on the NSU (and a bunch of other stuff) as soon as my parts get in.

Since I'd rather have the parts and not need them than need the parts and not have them, I've ordered the seals, gaskets and O-rings required to get the job done. I thought that I'd share with you what you Might need for parts, along with the part #s, if you if you decide to check your NSU.

In any case, I couldn't find the Suzuki part #s for replacement bolts, so if anyone comes across them, please let me know so that I can add the #s to this post. Same goes for the list of parts, if I've forgotten something.

Clutch Cover Gasket – 11482-32E00

2 X Oil Pipe Gasket (top of Clutch Cover) – 09168-10007

Oil Hose O-ring (Cooler to Filter) – 09280-12012

Gen. Cover TDC Plug O-Ring – 09168-14004

Gen. Rotor Bolt Plug O-ring – 09280-33004

Oil Filter – 16510-37450

O-ring Behind Oil Filter - 09280-15007

Oil Filter Cover O-ring – 09280-72001

Engine Oil - 20W50 or 10W40

2 X NSU Replacement Bolts :
5mm x 16mm if lockwiring
5mm x 20mm if 5mm lockwasher and Locktite used

Note: While you have the Clutch out, Loctite the Primary Gear Nut and retorque to 72.5 ft-lbs. See : topic6156.html for more info.

And another Note : while you have the clutch out, check on 2 washers/spacers around the clutch baskets that could be on their way out. See : topic6671.html

_________________
When you get too old to serve as a bad example, you can always give bad advice.


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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 6:58 pm 
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MSF Student
MSF Student
User avatar

Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:44 pm
Posts: 53
Location:
Thanks to everyone who posted the information. I have the Clymer manual, but seeing the information in this thread was very helpful.

About two weeks ago I noticed that my neutral light was not lit up at an intersection. This was the first time I had ever noticed anything like this. I was close to home and went straight home and parked the bike. By the time I made it home, the neutral light was working normally, but I haven't turned it back on since. The downtime made me realize how much I love my DR. Things didn't feel quite right while I couldn't ride the DR now that weather is so great.

I feel like I have passed some kind of DR650 Right of passage now that I have opened up my DR and checked the NSU and screws. It was good to see the inside of the motor and know that I won't have any upcoming issues and I know how to deal with them if they ever do crop up.

Interstingly, My '12 DR had allen head screws and they seemed fairly tight, However, they did not have any loctite on them. I dont' have a drill press or vice, but a local machine shop drilled my replacement screws for a very fair price. I ordered the clutch basket removal tool and also had an extra clutch gasket before starting. Overall, everything went better than expected. My gasket came off in one nice looking piece, so I reused it. The clutch washers didn't have any wear, and the clutch plates also looked great. The primary nut was very tight and I choose not to mess with it. I safety wired the NSU screws and put blue loctite on the NSU screws.

Looking forward to filling the crankase and riding it agian tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:35 pm 
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MSF Student
MSF Student

Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Avalon Sydney Australia
Location:
Great thread guys, very helpful!

I am about to pull mine apart today while I'm doing a service to check my NSU bolts. My question is, if I have removed all the neutral switches (kickstand & clutch) is it possible to remove the NSU switch from the engine casing altogether without causing issues?
Has this been done before?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:59 am 
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MSF Student
MSF Student
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:01 pm
Posts: 64
Location: on the road in South America
Question:

From what I understand the stock screw is M5 8mm x 15mm. Most people are using an allen head M5 8mm x 20mm for replacement, which allows them to have extra length for a washer or for safety-wiring the screws. However, if I were only using locktite (no safety wire), do I need the 20mm, or should I stick with a 15mm?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:10 pm 
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Adventure Rider
Adventure Rider
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Joined: Thu Feb 10, 2011 2:46 pm
Posts: 5008
Location:
Stick with 15mm. If the screws are too long they will bottom out against the shift drum and it will not shift gears.

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Everything for your DR650 and lots of other keen stuff!
DR900 Stroker Project
TurboDiesel Corvette


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:04 pm 
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MSF Student
MSF Student
User avatar

Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2015 3:01 pm
Posts: 64
Location: on the road in South America
ProCycle wrote:
Stick with 15mm. If the screws are too long they will bottom out against the shift drum and it will not shift gears.


Will do. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 12:08 pm 
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Newbie
Newbie

Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 7:39 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Ye ol'kak wrote:
Hi Guys & Gals,
I'll be checking on the NSU (and a bunch of other stuff) as soon as my parts get in.

Since I'd rather have the parts and not need them than need the parts and not have them, I've ordered the seals, gaskets and O-rings required to get the job done. I thought that I'd share with you what you Might need for parts, along with the part #s, if you if you decide to check your NSU.

In any case, I couldn't find the Suzuki part #s for replacement bolts, so if anyone comes across them, please let me know so that I can add the #s to this post. Same goes for the list of parts, if I've forgotten something.

Clutch Cover Gasket – 11482-32E00

2 X Oil Pipe Gasket (top of Clutch Cover) – 09168-10007

Oil Hose O-ring (Cooler to Filter) – 09280-12012

Gen. Cover TDC Plug O-Ring – 09168-14004

Gen. Rotor Bolt Plug O-ring – 09280-33004

Oil Filter – 16510-37450

O-ring Behind Oil Filter - 09280-15007

Oil Filter Cover O-ring – 09280-72001

Engine Oil - 20W50 or 10W40

2 X NSU Replacement Bolts :
5mm x 16mm if lockwiring
5mm x 20mm if 5mm lockwasher and Locktite used

Note: While you have the Clutch out, Loctite the Primary Gear Nut and retorque to 72.5 ft-lbs. See : topic6156.html for more info.

And another Note : while you have the clutch out, check on 2 washers/spacers around the clutch baskets that could be on their way out. See : topic6671.html


I am ordering the parts for this mod now. My (new to me) DR has 14,500 miles. Is there anything else I should do while I am in there?

Clutch thrust washer and bushing set? New clutch kit? Springs? Any troublesome seals or retainers?


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